Cages For Decorative Rabbits

When a decision is made to purchase a rabbit, the question immediately arises about its breed, based on which you will select a cage for your pet. Breeds of rabbits are conditionally divided into three groups (by purpose and size):

meat or meat-skin;

A distinctive feature of decorative rabbits is a wonderful fur and a peculiar color. They can be bred on the skins in different farms and farms. Animals of this breed are less meaty, but it is rather difficult to keep them at home. Feed for such a rabbit requires a lot, and it is more difficult to maintain sanitary conditions, because the weight of the rabbit reaches up to 5 kg. At home, these animals can be kept only at a young age.

Dwarf rabbits are more suitable for keeping at home. Since rabbits are small (up to 2 kg), their cage in the room will take up little space. In addition, in the house there is absolutely no smell from the presence and activity of such a rabbit.

At a young age, decorative and dwarf rabbits are almost the same. Therefore, it is better to buy them from breeders who can submit documents on the pedigree of the animal.

Cages For Decorative Rabbits

When purchasing a rabbit, you need to take care of his house. A cage for keeping a dwarf or ornamental rabbit is a serious matter. Approach her choice responsibly, taking into account the requirements for the content of the breed you purchased. The mistake made when choosing a cage can turn into problems for your pet. The cell must be of good quality and quality. The materials from which the cage is made must be durable so that they can last for several years. Most likely, your pet will gnaw the bars, scratch the cage and organize the toilet in the wrong place. On the bars of the cage should not be paint, as it can harm the rodent. Experts do not recommend the use of plastic cells. They are practically closed on all sides and do not provide access to fresh air, so the animal there will be stuffy and hot. And this is extremely dangerous for his life. Choose a large cage, about 4 times larger than the rabbit itself, because it will grow quickly. It will be good if an adult rabbit can stretch its entire length. In addition, it is important that a full-sized tray fit easily in a cage. The first thing you need to buy a cage and everything you need to keep a pet, and only then – the rabbit itself, and in no case the opposite. Worry about the first-aid kit for your bunny. You will need a carrier to transport the animal, for example, to the country, to the park, to the vet. It should be purchased too.

The requirements for the cage, its arrangement and content for dwarf and decorative rabbits are the same.

Cell arrangement requirements

Cages for decorative rabbits should be purchased in the appropriate size. The cage for a decorative or dwarf rabbit should have a plastic pallet, not a slatted bottom, since the pads on the legs of rabbits are not adapted for slatted floor. In the cage, the place for moving the animal and the sleeping house should be separated.

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The following items must be in the cage.

  • Nursery for hay. They must be purchased in order to store hay in them for food, because it quickly deteriorates on the floor.
  • Drinking bowl for rodents (automatic). It has a metal tube with a ball at the end. When the pet touches the ball with the tongue, the water from the drinker drips.
  • Bowl-feeder, which poured grain feed. Preferably a ceramic bowl-feeder, having a heavy and wide bottom, so that the rodent, when he grows up, could not turn it over. Convenient mounted bowls-feeders. They stand attached to the lattice cells. It is easy to put food in such bowls, they can be easily reached and cleaned.
  • House (after all, your pet will need to retire). Such a house should be wooden (but not coniferous), and not covered with paint.
  • Tray. Its depth should reach 15 cm.

It is not recommended to fill up cat litter in the tray; if it is available, the rabbit will gnaw it. The bottom of the tray should be covered first with any paper (newspaper), paper towels, and then put shavings or sawdust. So it will be easier to clean the dirty litter while cleaning the cage. Some rabbit breeders, still recommend using cat litter (woody), but it should be placed in trays under a small grate. This filler absorbs the smell of feces and crumbles into crumb, which is easily removed. In addition, due to its high absorbency, it prevents the formation of a urinary stone in the tray. Sawdust same quickly soak and do not delay the smell. However, you decide what to choose. We advise you to attach the tray to the bars of the lattice so that its pet is not football.

Note that the bottom of the cage should be non-slip, otherwise there may be problems with the health of the pet. Because of the hard floor without a litter, the rabbit may have inflammation on its hind legs. If, however, the bedding does not apply, you should regularly inspect the pet’s paws. If any signs of indisposition appear (wool is worn off on the paws, there is redness), the bottom should be covered with a soft cloth and the feet of the animal treated with the “Rescuer” ointment. Redness on the feet may be a sign of poddermatitis. Sawdust, straw, wood chips can be used as bedding. However, sawdust cling to wool and paws, so still it is better to abandon them. In the cage you need to put a mineral stone for rodents (usually it is made in the form of a red-brown wheel). Get a holder for vegetables, small nail clippers, for treating pet claws and a brush for grooming.

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In order for your pet to be vigorous and healthy it is necessary to keep its cage clean. It should be cleaned daily. Rabbits are considered to be neat creatures and will not use the dirty tray. They defiantly leave a handful near the tray. In the “walking” part of the cage, the litter needs to be changed every other day, and in the cottage where the rabbit sleeps, once a week. Once a month, they clean the cage and disinfect it. For cleaning the cell can not use any chemicals and cleaning products recommended for baths and dishes. Because their smell and not completely washed away residue can damage the rabbit. They wash the cage and all its equipment with hot water, and use a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. It is better to dry the cage in the sun, this contributes to the destruction of the remaining microbes. For cleaning, it is advisable to get a brush and a special scraper (a paint scraper will do), it is convenient for them to scrub the dirt from the corners. After cleaning, the entire tool must be cleaned, sanitized and dried.

In a residential area: The cage, especially with dwarf bunnies, is placed away from the battery and the air conditioner. It is recommended to install it on a small stand, but not high. And then the animal can jump out and break (there have been such cases). The cage should not be in the sun or stand in a draft. This is especially important!

In natural conditions: It is permissible in the summer to carry out rabbits on balconies and on the street, but appropriate conditions must be created. For such cases, a cell with solid walls on three sides is suitable, and a mesh door in front. The cage must be protected from wind, cold and sun. With the gradual adaptation of the rabbits feel good on the balcony (it should be glazed) even at +15 o C, this temperature is very comfortable for them. But stuffiness is dangerous for them. There must be a house in the cage so that the animal can rest in it. Note that the content in the fresh air is more acceptable for decorative rabbits, dwarf rabbits should dwell in the apartment (house) – after all, this is a pet and it is better for him to be near you.

Neighborhood in a cage

A good rabbit breeder gets a separate cage for each rabbit.

What is this need?

If you put together two uncastrated males, then in a couple of months they will begin to divide the territory. They can start quite serious fights. In females, aggression toward each other begins to manifest itself a little later, upon reaching puberty.

With the maintenance of two rabbits of different sexes, early offspring may occur as early as 12 weeks. And it is deadly for the female. Although, nevertheless, sometimes such circumstances arise that one has to lodge two rabbits together. In this case, you should be guided by the following principles.

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In one cage, you can settle two females from the same litter (that is, sisters), but even then there is a chance that they will quarrel. Therefore, it is necessary to observe them closely, and if there are any signs of aggression, they should be separated.

Cohabitation of males is not predicted, so it is better not to lodge them together.

The most successful option is the joint maintenance of the female and the castrated male. First, the male should be castrated at the age of about 6 months, and then he should get a girlfriend. Beforehand, they need to be introduced in neutral territory, and only then populated into one cell.

If the pet spends a lot of time outside the cage, then it can be 0.70 × 0.40 m in size, provided that the rabbit walks up to 4 hours a day. If the animal is in a cage all day, then it should be large, for example, 0.85 × 0.45 m.

Let’s stop on the minimum sizes of cages for dwarf rabbits (in m).

For the “Colored dwarf” breed, whose representatives weigh up to 1.3 kg, a cage measuring 0.7 × 0.55 m in size with a height of 0.45 m is convenient.

For the “Dwarf Angora” – the cell size is 0.7 × 0.55 × 0.45 m.

For the “Dwarf Sheep” – a cage measuring 0.90 × 0.60 × 0.45 m.

For decorative rabbits will require a larger cage.

The most versatile are cells 1.00 × 0.52 m, height 0.44 m. For larger breeds – 1.00 × 1.20 × 60 m or 1.00 × 0.80 × 0.70 m. Cage size is caused by the weight and age of ornamental and dwarf rabbits.

Firms producing cells

Especially in demand are the cells of the company "RABBIT" (especially two- and three-story). They have a tall pallet that extends. They are especially convenient to use.

Cage do it yourself

The quickest and simplest way is to build a cell with your own hands. For this fit a small table, such as a coffee table. Wooden frames are attached to its legs, and a metal grid is attached to them. The net should be fixed in good faith so that the ends of the wire and nails do not stick out, as the pet may get hurt about them. The back wall is covered with plywood, and 2 frames with wire are fastened in front, hanged on hinges. The bottom is lined with non-slip material. But nevertheless, rabbit breeders advise to use standard cages, and better – well-known companies. Since their designs take into account all the details of the content of certain breeds of rabbits.

That, in general, is all about the cages for your favorites. Cages for decorative rabbits are almost the same as cages for dwarf rabbits. The differences are completely insignificant.

Our guide to breeding and keeping rabbits. Homemade rabbit from