Cages For Rabbits_7

Many experts do not call the most promising method of cell keeping the most promising – it has a lot of facilities for a rabbit breeder. Animals in cages, always in front of your eyes, are always available for veterinary and breeding work. The basic principle by which cells are built is two-compartment. That is, the cage for rabbits is divided into nesting and aft compartments. In one troughs and a trough are installed, in the other a rabbit brings out rabbits. Such a “two-room apartment” can be designed for one or two rabbits. Juveniles are often contained in "dormitories" – group cells, also arranged at the discretion of the owner.

In designing cells, there is a lot of room for creativity, but there are some standards in terms of dimensions, which are not advisable to reduce (for reasons of saving space or materials). The most simple and rational cell sizes are given, in my opinion, in the book “Rabbits” by S. Aleksandrov and T. Kosova (Moscow: ACT, 2004. – 157 p.) In the form of the following table:

Rabbit cage sizes

Of course, if you decide to somewhat increase the living space of your animals, they will only be grateful to you. The given dimensions are a necessary minimum. The main indicator is the floor area. The main purpose of the design is convenience for rabbits and for the rabbit breeder. Ease of feeding, examining animals, cleaning and disinfecting cells. The cage should be well ventilated in the summer (the more fresh air the better) and be able to be protected from drafts and weatherization for the winter, especially if your winters are harsh.

How to make a cage for rabbits

Materials for the manufacture of cells can be very diverse. Wood, metal, pressboard, adobe, bricks, some weave cages from rods, walls covered with clay. In recent years, so many new materials suitable for the manufacture of cells have appeared on the market, that the choice depends only on your imagination and financial possibilities. In personal subsidiary farms, it is not uncommon for the manufacture of cells to have available material – all kinds of construction waste, debris and cuttings, people compose them with a grid (for air access) and transparent PVC (or polycarbonate (greenhouses are increasingly being built)) so that the cell is better lit. . You should not get carried away with the light – the animal should be able to hide in the shade on a hot summer day. Do not forget that in nature the rabbit lives in a hole and the darkness does not frighten him.

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Group cells in different ways too. A block may consist of two cells, or maybe a dozen. To save space, both in personal subsidiary farms and in industrial rabbit farms, cells are often placed in two tiers, providing, of course, the removal of waste products from the upper tier so that they do not fall into the lower tier. It happens and three-tier arrangement, but this is already a dubious advantage – to care for the residents of such a "high-rise building" is not very convenient. If there is enough space, it is better to put them in one tier and make the doors on top – so better access to animals for feeding and cleaning the cells.

The lower part of the cell is located 50-60 cm from the ground or the floor of the barn. This is done for various reasons – both for the convenience of a rabbit breeder, and for preservation from predators: rats, for example, can steal rabbits if they gain access. In parallel, both rats and mice spread diseases that are dangerous not only for rabbits, but sometimes also for humans.

Cages For Rabbits_7

The floor in the aft compartment is often made of rails, as we have in the photo, or from a metal mesh with a tray and drain for the liquid, but in the breeding compartment it should be solid, better wooden and as dense as possible: rabbits are not hares, rabbits are born blind, deaf and naked, drafts can ruin them. There is no need to worry about the purity of the nesting compartment: rabbits are clean animals and usually meet the natural needs of the aft compartment, where the netting is.

Convenient can recognize the design, providing hinged (removable) uterine compartment – a box with a small hole, sufficient for the passage of the rabbit. The diameter depends on the rabbit breed you choose. When it is okol time, the box is simply inserted into the cage or hung on it, and when the rabbits have grown up and are caged for the young, they are removed.

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Group cage for young

Uterine separation generally requires increased attention, both in terms of materials and in terms of design. Rabbits are born naked and blind, in the first days of life they are completely helpless. Before the rabbit, the rabbit makes a nest of straw and loose fluff, but quite often on the second or third day the rabbit pushes the litter and ends up on the bare floor. Therefore, what the floor of the queen cell will be made of is of great importance. Do not upholster it with metal, the tree must also be dry, "warm." There should be no gaps: drafts and adult rabbits suffer poorly, and in this tender age, a draft is simply destructive for them.

Some breeders sprinkle 2-3 cm of sawdust on the floor of the mother liquor, and then fill it with straw. The little rabbit pushes the straw apart and it turns out to be a warm nest from all sides, but you should not rely on this method only. Therefore, properly selected material plus insulation for the queen cell will not be an excess, in the winter it will play a role in the safety of offspring. The rule “all the best for children” in rabbit breeding is quite appropriate.

One of the successful designs of the mother liquor is a nest with a shelf. Laz does not immediately lead to the nest, but to a slightly lower step-shelf. Rabbits usually sit under it – they are cozier with such a roof over their heads. If the rabbit is frightened and flies into the nest with all the dope, then even the regiment will not allow her to injure the rabbits. On the same shelf, the bunny can take a break from the kids when needed — they won’t get her there.

Some rabbit breeders make the door to the manhole in the mother liquor. The bunny rabbit feeds children mainly at night and in the evening it can be covered. So the nest is kept warm. The door can also be made from a piece of tarpaulin – the rabbit will quickly learn to move it away with its nose. You can come up with a swinging door in the style of American doors for pets – with the top arrangement of hinges … In short, there is also full scope for creativity.

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There are several standard cell constructions developed, for example, the Research Institute of Fur Farming and Rabbit Breeding. If you have the opportunity and plan to keep a large enough flock of rabbits in a cellular way, then it makes sense to familiarize yourself with these structures. The opinion of the rabbits themselves was hardly taken into account during the development, but at least these cells have the necessary compartments and equipment (feeders and drinkers), tested by time.

Double cage with queen cell

1 – door to the breeding compartment; 2 – pole-stand; 3 – mesh door; 4 – folding drinking bowl; 5 – folding feeder; 6 – nursery; 7 – trough axis.

Constructing and constructing cages for the future of Eared livestock, you need to remember that this rabbit is for you – a source of healthy food and valuable fur. For a rabbit, a cage is a home, he spends his entire short life in it. If your home is spacious enough and comfortable, if this stress-prone creature feels better, your business will be more successful. You do not do a cage at once, so you should not save too much on materials – the costs will be paid off.

Rabbit cage designs

Our people are so inventive that they may come up with the most unexpected technical solutions. Building cages for rabbits and rabbit equipment is a creative affair, and I would not dwell on some other experience. Therefore, we present only the general schemes of typical cells, and from what and how you build them is a business.

The main thing is that a self-made rabbit cage has two main advantages over a purchased one: 1. It is much, sometimes ten times cheaper, and 2. During production you can increase the size as much as your conditions allow you, which will benefit the rabbits.