Cages For Rabbits Do It Yourself

Rabbits need shelter. The decision to make a cage with your own hands is a great idea. The most common choice for keeping rabbits is a cage. Traditional high-rise rabbit housing provides living space for a large number of rabbits. Most often used powerful designs of large sizes with several levels. Handmade Rabbit Cages should not be only from the wire. They must have a closed box area and be large enough for the animal to move freely and to protect it from predators and the weather. The rabbit’s dwelling should be about 4-6 times the size of one rabbit when it is fully stretched to its full length because it is a mobile animal that does not tolerate crowding. During the creation of selected cell models, the rabbit breeders are very creative and make extensive use of local building materials. wooden massif, bricks, adobe, tile or other improvised means. The main outdoor stationary cages are established in the fresh air, where rabbits stay throughout the year.

Rabbitry do it yourself

Cages For Rabbits Do It Yourself

do-it-yourself rabbit cages

There are many different cage designs made from a combination of different building materials for rabbits, which depend on the breed of animals in terms of parameters. For large and giant rabbits, cages do more, and for medium-sized animals. less.

What is necessary to provide for the simplest cell?

Door bolts must be replaced with reliable locks and in some cases with the addition of locks. They also serve to prevent small children from opening their cages without supervision.

Another potential problem. it’s a grid on a cage. The design must be securely fastened and, for the most part, the mesh welded.

Rabbit cages must be raised above the ground to protect them from moisture. If the rabbit cage is on the ground, you can independently put it on its feet. Another alternative is rollers (wheels), designed for cabinets on which you can put a cage.

The walls of the cage should be as strong as possible and you should not use thin plywood for the walls. they may be a little cheaper, but will need to be replaced much earlier than a cage made of boards.

The cages should have hard floors instead of a mesh, which is harmful to rabbit legs. To make floors easier to clean from feces, you can close them with linoleum or vinyl. You can put a toilet in the corner.

Portable cells have the only difference – they have stands not dug in the ground. If it is planned to move the rabbits in the winter to a closed warm room, and in the summer these structures are placed in the air, then a combined content can be used.

Street or outdoor cell location method requires the construction of a high-quality roof that does not let in rainwater and protects from direct sunlight, hail and other weather disasters. Canopies are not only great for rabbits, they are good for owners. No one can stop the rain when it is necessary to feed the animals, clean the cages or care for the young. With a canopy, you can do all this under the roof in warmth. Cells are installed in one or more tiers. The design can be a team of individual cells or each cell has several floors.

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The recommended sizes for three-tiered cells with a mesh floor, which mainly contain adult rabbits, are as follows:

  • height from ground to floor of cells of the first tier. 0.45 m, the second. 0.95 m, the third. 1.5 meters,
  • the length of each cell is 1.2 meters, with a width of 0.65 meters, with a height of the front wall of 0.40 meters and the rear 0.3 meters.

Cell construction

Cages For Rabbits Do It Yourself

Rabbit breeding in each farm, relying on local climatic conditions, individual capabilities and their own needs, has long provided for a variety of constructive solutions for creating cells. During the construction of housing for breeding or keeping rabbits is recommended to adhere to these developments.

  • In this case, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the walls for the cells. They are made more dense so that no drafts occur.
  • For the protection of animals, the recommended constructions provide for a roof or a roof overhang with a width of 0.3 meters above the front mesh wall, and above the rear side about 0.2 meters.
  • The roof is traditionally made of planks and covered with eternity, tar, clay-alumina material, slate, linoleum residues or film materials.
  • The floor for the cage is recommended to be made of smooth, well-treated boards with a thickness of 20 millimeters, without cracks, solid, with a slope of up to 0.05 meters to the front wall for drainage of excrements. With the same purpose, a technical gap of about 10 millimeters is left along the front wall.
  • On top of the solid main floor, you can arrange a retractable rail floor. This design makes it easy to maintain the cell in perfect sanitary condition, clean and dry, which prevents to a large extent all kinds of diseases. In addition, it makes it possible to wash the cage without removing the animal from the cage.
  • On the front side of the cells, an appropriately sized door is made, which is tightened with a metal mesh with a medium-meshed mesh.
  • On one side of the door they install a feeding trough and a trough, on the other there is a nesting place. The lid of the feeder, with a recommended length of about 0.4 meters, extends outward to feed the rabbits with coarse and succulent feeds without opening the door and allows you not to disturb the animals.
  • The inner sides of the cells in the feeder are upholstered with metal edges so that the feed does not fall out of the feeder.
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The upper part of the mother liquor is made of high-quality wooden solid, and the second, removable consists of small racks or mesh with very small cells. In the uterine, portable compartment, the floor is made double. The rest of the cage has a single, mesh or slatted floor. To prevent feces from falling from the cells of the upper floors to the lower ones, they are separated from the cells by solid, sloping back, floors. When the winter period of okrol begins, boxes made of small boards or plywood, called queen cells, are placed in a cage. For their creation, the recommended dimensions are a length of about 0.5 m, a width and height of about 0.3 m, which allows a medium-sized female to sit there. A roundish opening for a manhole with a diameter of 0.2 m through which the female enters the mother liquor is cut in the side of the queen side.

The nest section is arranged in a dark corner of the cage in the form of a removable shelf, which consists of a pair of dooschek fixed at an angle 0.30 m long and 0.1 m high. This shelf is made with the purpose of protecting the litter material that the rabbits scatter when moving. In addition, on such a shelf the female with pleasure arranges the nest. For a more affordable way to care for the rabbits in the nest, the top or side cover of the portable queen cell is made retractable. In the cage, a feeding trough for various types of food or concentrates and a drinking bowl, measuring about 0.15 m in diameter, must be installed.

Filling the drinker with water occurs manually or automatically, if a special device is installed. Drinking bowls can be finished stamped or cast from white metal or special hard plastics, which are fixed on the outside front side of the cage with a conventional wire plug. The drinking bowl has a narrowed protrusion ahead of it, entering through the cell of the grid inside the cell.

In agriculture, breeding rabbits at home is quite common and exists on many years of experience, which is passed on from the older generation to the younger.

Designs for cells have many options, enshrined in the drawings. They differ in size, number of floors, area, location depending on the breeds and size of the farm. In fact, the selected structures are suitable for any farm with a correction for the size. If a combined construction is chosen for housing the rabbits, then the dimensions of such a rabbit cage are usually the following:

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The main parameters of length and width are about 3×0.6 meters with a height of the front wall from the floor to the roof about 0.5 meters, the rear wall about 0.4 meters, the front legs have a height of 0.65 meters, and the rear legs are shorter by 50 mm, which creates a bias for the flow of feces.

The feeders are located at a height of about 0.2 meters for succulent or coarse feeds, 0.1 meters above the floor. Feeders are necessarily covered with lids with dimensions of 0.15 x 1.47 meters. The parameters of the drinkers are 1.50 cm long, in which the bottom is about 50 mm wide, the upper part expands to 110 mm with a wall height of about 90 mm and a depth of about 250 mm. On the inside of all the lids, the corners were made to a height of about 90 mm at a distance of about 100 mm from each other to prevent the transfer of rabbits to other cages.

For mesh sizes of mesh floors, holes from 15×15 mm to 20×20 mm are recommended. The roof is divided into 3 parts. It is recommended to make it wooden, covering it with shingles or slate. Each of the 3 parts of the roof is hinged to the front top trim of the cage, this serves as a door. Mesh suspended partitions with dimensions of about 0.4 meters are fixed to wooden corners and installed across the cell at a distance of 20 mm from the main cage roof. When lifting partitions, they are thrown over these corners, and when lowered they are attached to the floor with hooks.

There are many different interesting solutions for the settlement of rabbits. In relatively small areas, people place entire megacities for rabbits, which deliver a lot of positive emotions to their owners. But standard solutions do not always fit into the capabilities of various farms and, in general, require an individual approach. The topic of rabbit breeding at home is well covered in literature, special magazines, videos. Moreover, the long-term amateur experience most often significantly affects the quality and availability of breeding these animals to produce dietary meat products, skins, and raw materials for downy nitroles of breeding decorative or special breeds. Organizing even a small farm on the plot requires studying the experience of experienced breeders. When using cells for rabbit designs, I.N. Mikhailov or Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin, whose names often sound when choosing equipment in the rabbit breeding, various trifles are envisaged, but perhaps the other owner sees the location, size, and subsequent placement of animals differently.