Cages For Rabbits In 2 And 3 Tiers Capital House With Their Own Hands

In most cases, farmers make cages for rabbits with their own hands in both 2 and 3 tiers. Such structures are made as capital structures for a large enough population. To create such multi-storey buildings can be a few days. However, the main thing is to accurately consider all sizes and minimum space requirements per animal.

The advantages of high-bay structures

Cages For Rabbits In 2 And 3 Tiers Capital House With Their Own Hands

Tiered cells made according to the method of Zolotukhin or according to their own drawings, compared with less dimensional products, have quite a lot of tangible advantages:

  1. First of all, they are very roomy, so you can immediately keep a large herd in such cages.
  2. In the multi-tiered cages, you can consider the place for all members of the family: males, rabbits with offspring, young, “problem” individuals that do not gain weight.
  3. Despite its size, cells from 2 and 3 tiers can be moved from place to place.

Of course, it is more difficult to make multi-tiered cages, but the result will be useful: the whole population will live in one house, it will be convenient to feed and water the animals, because for a large cage you can immediately think up a common water supply system, which will reduce the labor costs for keeping rabbits.

Cells in 2 tiers: step by step instructions

Such cages for decorative rabbits are made of plywood, and metal profiles or wooden bars are used as bearing structures. Accordingly, the materials needed will be needed:

  • plywood sheets (or pallets boards);
  • fasteners (nails, screws);
  • screwdriver, screwdriver;
  • mesh and hinges for the door;
  • timber wooden or metal profile.

According to the parameters, you can take a standard 2-tier cage with 4 identical compartments on each floor:

  • each compartment 50 cm in length (only 200 cm);
  • width 100 cm (i.e. the distance from the back wall to the door);
  • compartment height 50 cm (from floor to ceiling).

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. Mounted frame of the profile or beam in accordance with the drawing.
  2. Floors are installed (overlapping) – sheets of plywood with holes made in it.
  3. The doors are mounted and the internal space in the cage (flooring, feeders, drinkers) is equipped.
Cages For Rabbits In 2 And 3 Tiers Capital House With Their Own Hands

Cells that are placed indoors are not insulated from below.

Detailed description of the stages is given on the example of creating a 3-tier cell, since the technology is not fundamentally different. It should be noted that the multi-tiered cells can be both street and located in the rabbitry. For street constructions it is necessary to additionally strengthen the floor in order to save it from frost.

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As practice shows, if the winters in the region are frosty enough, then the lower tier should be further warmed up by making the floor from a double layer of plywood, as well as strengthening the bedding from straw or sawdust. Moreover, it is better to take these measures for those self-made cells that are supposed to be placed indoors.

Cells in 3 tiers: step by step instructions

Such designs are successfully used by farmers who are planning to increase the number of rabbits. The dignity of the cage for rabbits in 3 tiers is its capacity. On each floor you can keep a small herd, and also divide the tier by a partition into 2-3 compartments and keep the young growth separately from the adults.

Cages For Rabbits In 2 And 3 Tiers Capital House With Their Own Hands

Three-tiered cells can be of any design.

Calculation of parameters

Before proceeding with the installation, it is important to correctly draw dimensional drawings. For example, if we assume that all will contain 9 adult rabbits (3 per line), then The parameters of compartment 1 should be as follows:

  • length from 70 cm;
  • width from 60 cm;
  • height from 60 cm.

It turns out that it is necessary to retreat from the rabbit’s wall at least a meter, and calculate the height 3-60 = 180 cm plus the height of the supports and the thickness of the floors with trays for waste collection (ie, the height of the rabbit must not be less than 220 cm). In length, such a structure will be 210 cm. It is from these dimensions that one must proceed.

When drafting your specific project, you need to proceed from the real possibilities of the premises. It is important not to forget that the cage should not be placed close to the ceiling and walls, because in this case it will cool down more in the winter. If we take as a basis 6 identical sections on each tier (floor), you can use the drawing below.

Materials and tools

All-season designs are made from ordinary wood. As the bearing supports serves the metal profile or wooden bars. Accordingly, you will need the following materials:

  • sheet plywood or slab boards with a thickness of not more than 5-6 mm;
  • wooden beams or metal profiles for the manufacture of load-bearing supports;
  • fasteners – nails, screws, screws, metal corners, brackets;
  • mesh for the floor (or grille);
  • mesh for doors and fasteners for mounting doors – handles, hinges, bolts and heck to close;
  • moisture-proof and loose material for the roof of the cell – linoleum flooring, flat slate or polycarbonate;
  • sheets to cover the inner wooden surfaces that rabbits can chew on.
Cages For Rabbits In 2 And 3 Tiers Capital House With Their Own Hands

For the construction of cells need the most common tool.

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Among the tools you need to use the typical devices that will be found in any household:

  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • construction stapler;
  • saw;
  • construction roulette and level.

Attention! Wood sheets of plywood should not be treated with varnish or stain, as artificial chemical odors can badly affect rabbits. The only measure of protection is the use of tin sheets.

Manufacturing technology

The sequence of actions depends on which material was chosen for the support – a metal profile or wooden beam. In the first case, step by step instructions such:

  1. The profile is cut in accordance with the dimensions of the drawing.
  2. On the profile, markings are made for future holes. Here it is important to measure out everything very precisely, the permissible error is about 2 mm.
  3. Further, using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled into a single whole.
  4. Next, the back wall and floor are made. If the thickness of the plywood for the wall should be 5-6 mm, then for the floor surface you should take a plywood of at least 8 mm.
  5. Top mounted roofing material.
  6. On tier 1 using a screwdriver, screwdriver or drill you need to make 15-20 holes for the flow of urine.
  7. Next, side slabs and sides are mounted 5-6 cm tall, which will prevent the precipitation of straw and sawdust from the floor.
  8. With the help of the mesh, the hinges and the profile, the mesh door and the mother liquor door are made.
  9. Finally, the final stages – the internal arrangement of cells. A drinking bowl, a feeding trough are put, straw is spreading, sawdust.

If, however, wooden bars are used as carriers, the technology of making a cell with your own hands will not fundamentally change this. Only the frame is initially assembled from fragments of a bar measured and sawn in accordance with the drawing. Fastening is made by screws.

Invalid errors

Before construction, you should pay attention to some common mistakes that should not be made – otherwise the structure will become fragile or the animal will be uncomfortable in it:

  1. First of all, do not save much on the spot. On 1 m 2 should be placed no more than 5 adult animals. The above dimensions of length, width and height are considered optimal, since they are derived based on the long-term experience of the breeders.
  2. Particular attention should be paid to the floor, because it will have to be cleaned most often. Both extremes are bad – both a monolithic floor of solid plywood and mesh. The monolith is poorly cleaned, besides in the cold season the straw and manure quickly compile and freeze. Netting floor is dangerous for rabbits, because they get paws or even fingers, claws into the cells and can easily get hurt. And one more risk – in the winter in an unheated barn, rabbits may even be frozen to the metal grid. Therefore, the most successful option is wooden plywood with holes. It keeps warm and removes waste well.
  3. Immediately you need to pay attention to the door in the front wall. If you save on the material and make it too small, it will be difficult to pull out the litter and the rabbits during the cleaning of the cage.
  4. It is unacceptable to make walls and floors from metal sheets: the metal is very hot in the summer, and it will be stuffy in rabbits in such rooms. In winter, it cools just as quickly – there will be the opposite effect.
  5. When the installation work begins, the project should be ready to the details – i.e. all internal divisions of tiers need to be thought out in advance. The compartment with the rabbit and the offspring must be well isolated, because the animal is frightened and becomes aggressive if its neighbors disturb it. All this is fraught with the fact that the rabbit can be under stress for a long time, pass on the young and even eat them.
  6. The premises for males should be extremely spacious – if they move a little, this is bad for their performance.
  7. No more than 3-4 females can be kept in one compartment together with the offspring.
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Attention! It is better to make a 2- or 3-tier cage with a small margin. At least you should leave at least one cell empty. If any compartment is damaged, animals can be temporarily moved there. Besides, it is often necessary to place those individuals who cannot gain normal weight in a separate room. Feed them there separately using a pipette.

Thus, large cages for rabbits are an opportunity to solve several problems at once and provide animals with a large room where all the livestock can easily fit.

In the video, the master tells how to make cages for rabbits with his own hands: