Cages For Rabbits With Their Own Hands The Simplest

Cages For Rabbits With Their Own Hands The Simplest

How to build a cage for rabbits yourself? This question usually arises for newbies who decide to engage in rabbit breeding. Seasoned farmers themselves are usually developing convenient for themselves designs that facilitate the care of animals.

How to build a cage for rabbits

Cells can be different in structure and made of various materials. They are made completely simple, or they are additionally equipped with “comforts”, such as water supply or heating. In the construction of the cage, much will depend on the planned number of rabbits, their breed and size, on the availability of compensation materials and on the place where it will be installed, on the desire and ability to equip it with various devices, as well as on the ability to work with joinery and plumbing tools.

Cell placement

Cages for rabbits can be located in economic rooms, such, for example, as a shed, or directly on the street. Therefore, they can be divided into three types according to their location and the method of breeding rabbits:

  • Year-round outdoor cell placement when animals are constantly on the air.
  • Year-round maintenance of pets in the room.
  • The combined breeding option, that is, in winter, the rabbits are indoors, and with the onset of warm weather they are transferred to the street.

Experienced rabbit breeders believe that the best way to breed these animals is to keep them year-round on the street, as this favors the development of immunity to various diseases and the formation of healthy, high-quality hair. In addition, when growing rabbits outside, females significantly improve their productivity, which increases the number of rabbits in the litter and their endurance.

Street cells

Cages for rabbits are most often installed on the street in the event that a large number of animals are to be bred – a hundred or more individuals.

Experienced breeders recommend year-round rabbit keeping outside

The convenience of arranging rabbit meat in outdoor conditions is to have more space and ease of care for their menagerie, since each of the cells need periodic cleaning.

For the construction of street cages, sufficiently strong materials are used, since the design must be reliable and stable – these qualities will help protect rabbits from adverse natural factors, as well as from penetration into the cells of predatory animals – dogs, foxes, cats or rats.

A very good solution for a street cage – roof visor protruding

It is desirable that the building is located under a canopy with a large front visor, so that any precipitation, as well as direct sunlight, do not bother the pets much.

Two-section cage with dedicated “warm rooms”

If rabbits will be on the street all year round, then it is necessary to take care of the weatherization of one of the parts of the cage. These animals tolerate low winter temperatures, but it will still be useful to create comfortable conditions for them and a special place where they can warm themselves in particularly cold days and nights.

Indoor cells

Rabbit located in the barn

Cells placed in non-winding rooms can be completely made of metal mesh, mounted on a wooden frame, and have a wooden slatted floor. If the breeding of pets is carried out on the premises, it is important to think carefully about the convenient disposal of their waste.

Combined rabbit breeding option

Compact cell that is easy to move to the right place.

This type of keeping rabbits can be practiced in mobile cages, which for the warm period are taken out on the street, and in the cold season are installed indoors.

In another case, if funds and space permit, cells are built in two places – on the street and in the barn. Such a way of housekeeping is hardly suitable for those farmers who breed a large number of pets, since a sufficiently large area is required for the installation of winter and summer cages.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single-tiered and multi-tiered. In addition, their design may vary depending on the main purpose – for around, for raising young animals or for keeping adult pets.

Single and multi-tiered structures

Cells are single-tier and multi-tiered, but they are no more than three tiers.

  • Single tier cells

Single-level buildings raised above the ground by 700 ÷ 800 mm and covered with a roof of slate or sheet metal. If this option of buildings will be on the street, then it is better to choose a slate roof, as the metal heats up quickly, and the rabbits do not tolerate strong heat.

For ease of cleaning it is recommended to make a tray with a gutter for easy cleaning.

To collect and remove animal waste in a single-tier cage, a metal pan made in the form of a drain is often enough arranged for the convenience of its regular cleaning.

  • Tiered cells

More often practiced by multi-tiered cells, which may have two or three tiers, and on each of which place a different number of sections. Such structures are most often made of bars, planks and galvanized mesh, and are used for breeding rabbits both outdoors and indoors.

Similar constructions of cells are called Sheds – in them tiers with sections are located one above the other, which helps to significantly save space.

The best option is considered a two-tier design, as it will allow for comfortable care and monitoring of pets.

Shed recommended to raise above the ground by 500 ÷ 600 mm, when installed indoors, and 700 ÷ 750 mm in street conditions. Such a cage is considered the best for keeping rabbits, so it is used most often.

When building multi-tiered cells, a space of at least 150 mm in height must remain between each of the tiers. Above the cages a sloping metal roof is installed. In the space between the tiers and below the lower tier are fixed inclined ebb. They are necessary so that the waste of rabbits does not fall into the lower cages and does not linger on the lower roof, but flows down to the ground or into the drain arranged behind the structure or separate for each tier. On each of these ebb sides the sides are bent, which do not allow the waste to fall outside this plane.

Cage with hay pans inside

Some owners prefer to use removable plastic pallets, which are installed on the runners under the grated floor, and can be removed for cleaning and rinsing.

Another option – pallets are installed directly in the cells. In addition, cells are sometimes made with a solid floor. Both of the latter options are probably not very convenient, as the litter in the cells will have to be changed quite often – once every two or three days.

Cages for okrol

In the cells intended for okrol, special cameras are arranged on the sides, or space is provided for the installation of a mobile queen cell. In the construction with a stationary compartment, the walls, the removable floor and the ceiling are made solid, as it must be well insulated and not blown by drafts, otherwise the rabbit will die.

Require special attention cells with sections for okrola

The floor in the rest of the cage, where the aft section is located, is made of wooden bars or metal mesh.

Mobile mother liquor is a fully closed box with a round hole for entry. The box must also have an additional side door for cleaning and drying.

A small portable mother liquor solves the problem of okrol in almost any cell.

The mobile mother liquor is convenient in that it can be rearranged, if necessary, in different cells, and it is also easier to clean and change the litter.

This chamber is insulated with dry, undamaged hay or shavings. It is not recommended to use small sawdust, as they can get into the respiratory tract of the rabbit and they will die.

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If it is done in winter, then a few days before it is recommended to put an electric heating pad in the mother liquor in order to create comfortable conditions for the rabbit.

Heated the mother liquor with a lamp

In the cold season, it is often impossible to do without heating the uterine department, so instead of a heating pad you can also use a regular light bulb, which is kept constantly on during this period. It is placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber. Choosing this type of heating, you need to take care of fire safety, so the chamber where the lamp will be located should be sheathed with a thin metal sheet.

Another way to heat this part of the cage is a heating cable for the “warm floor” system, which is attached to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it. Using this option, be sure to ensure that the cable is in the cell, was solid, without splicing. This system, installed according to all rules, allows you to adjust the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on the temperature outside – it can be connected to a thermostatic regulator.

For cells located in the premises of the sheds, the queen cells are best made mobile so that they can be taken outside for thorough cleaning, airing and drying in the sun. If the built-in uterine chamber is planned, then the floor must be removable.

Two-section single-tier cage with integrated queen cells

Each of the sections of cells of this type usually has a length of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm, a depth of 550 ÷ 650 mm, a height on the front side of 550 ÷ 600 mm and 400 ÷ 450 mm on the back wall. Built-in uterine chamber make a width of 350 ÷ 400 mm.

Cages for young

Cages for young animals should be designed for the maintenance of 8 ÷ 20 rabbits at the same time between the ages of three and five months. A group box is made up of an area of ​​approximately 0.25 – 0.3 m² per pet, with a wall height of at least 350 mm.

Special housing conditions must also be created for the young.

If the cells are made multi-tiered and installed on the street, then they must be raised above the ground by not less than 700 ÷ 750 mm.

Cage variant for young

If the floor is mounted from wooden bars, then they should be protected from rabbits by securing a metal grid on top, as the kids often try to bite the wood or scratch it with their paws. For this purpose, suitable mesh with a wire thickness of 1.5-1.8 mm and a cell size of 16 × 40 mm. It is possible to make a fully mesh floor in a cage for grown-up baby rabbits, but it is necessary to arrange for them a warm compartment. Netting floor is good because there is a constant airing of the cell and spontaneous removal of waste, which protects the rabbits from infectious diseases and parasites.

In the cages for young stock, the warm nesting compartment should also be well insulated for the winter period, in much the same way as for the newborn rabbits. For warming, hay or straw is used, laid in a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm. It is not necessary to choose artificial materials for insulation, since they have a bad effect on the development and growth of babies of all breeds of rabbits.

Adult Rabbit Cage

The cage for adults has fully mesh front walls.

For adult rabbits of breeds of medium size, cages are made with sections of 600 ÷ 700 mm in depth, a facade height of 600 mm and a length of 1000 mm – these are the minimum sizes for comfortable development of an adult individual of an animal. For these cells, the same block construction is used, in each of the blocks there are two cells separated by a wall.

Front wall-door cages for adult rabbits

It is necessary to provide for the unification of these cells into one, for example, for the mating period – for this, the partition between them is made removable. The floor in cages for adults is recommended to be made of galvanized mesh.

It is very important to take into account the fact that pets must move freely inside the cages, since their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

This cage design is well suited for keeping young or for rabbits of reproductive age. The cage consists of two compartments – this is a zone completely enclosed by walls and a roof and a net enclosure. Two compartments are connected by a round or rectangular entrance cut in the back wall of the cage with solid surfaces. Rabbits in such cells have the ability to move freely and safely, which is favorable for their development and growth.

Cage variant with walking enclosure

The sizes of such structures can be different, but usually the depth of a closed cage is 600 ÷ 650 mm, and the depth of the enclosure is 800 ÷ 1000 mm. Most often, a regular single-tier block is built, consisting of two separate cells, and then, if there is space behind it, a net enclosure is attached to it.

Cages for rabbits of breed "giants"

Large rabbits of the “giant” meat-fur breed require a special approach, since not standard cages are lined up for them, but with more significant parameters. Individuals of this breed grow to sizes from 550 to 650 mm in length, and their weight ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. From these figures and it is necessary to make a start, making the drawing project of construction.

Special conditions are required for giant rabbits.

For one adult “giant” rabbit, a cage with a size of not less than 960 mm in length, 700 mm in depth and 600 ÷ 700 mm in height is required.

For young stock of this breed, in one brood of which there are on average eight rabbits, you will need a cage of 1.2 m², at least 400 mm high.

Since the “giant” rabbits have a fairly large weight, the cage floor should be strengthened – it is also laid out of galvanized mesh, but made of thicker wire, for example, 2 ÷ 2.2 mm. In addition, in order to prevent the net from bending under the weight of the animal, in the manufacture of the floor, it is necessary to first fix the bars of 30 × 30 mm in size, laid at a distance of 35 ÷ 40 mm from each other, and then lay the metal grid on top of them.

Spacious cages for giant rabbits

Some farmers will lay a solid floor in the cages, but in this case, the best option would be to install plastic or rubber pallets in them. If you choose this option cell arrangement, then clean it from waste will have daily or once every two days.

Cage for rabbits of the Californian breed

This breed of rabbits (a hybrid of the New Zealand breed, Soviet chinchilla and Russian ermine) is quite popular because of its simplicity in its care and resistance to negative winter temperatures. In size, adults of the Californian breed are smaller than “giants” and their length is 450 ÷ 500 mm, but their weight sometimes reaches 4.5 ÷ 5 kg. The cage for these rabbits should be about 0.4 ÷ 0.5 m² in size. The paws of pets of this breed are covered with hard wool, so they will be quite comfortable in cages with mesh or slatted floor.

Californian rabbits

In the case when Californian rabbits are raised exclusively for meat, they are often kept in a pit of 2000 × 2000 and a depth of 1000 mm. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate, a plank or mesh floor is laid on the floor, a low fence is installed around the pit and a roof is constructed.

Good results are obtained by keeping certain breeds of rabbits in conditions close to their natural habitat.

In one of the walls of the pit is an earthen niche, which is not strengthened by anything. It is necessary in order to create conditions close to the natural habitat of these animals. Rabbits will be happy to dig in the ground burrows, and with proper care to breed well and grow their own young.

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Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

To facilitate the care of pets, it is worthwhile to think of a convenient supply of food and water. There are many different designs, as feeders, and drinkers. They can be purchased in finished form or even made independently.

Drinking bowls

Rabbits need plenty of clean water and if it is poured into a bowl that is not fixed at a certain height, then different garbage will fall into it or, even worse, a rabbit, stepping on it with its paw, will simply overturn it and pour water.

Rabbits must always have access to clean water.

It is very important to determine the choice of material from which the drinkers will be made. For example, if you install products made of thin plastic, they will not last for a long time, as rabbits will bite them. In metal cans, water will quickly become polluted and cloudy. Therefore, seasoned breeders have developed several simple designs that allow you to constantly provide animals with the necessary amount of water.

Automatic drinkers

This type of drinker is often used both on large farms and in small house farms. The design of this drinker consists of a bowl connected to a container filled with water. Moreover, the bowl is in a cage, and the container is located outside, so it is easy to replenish it with new supplies of fresh water.

Convenient drinking bowl with clean water

The principle of operation of such devices is quite simple – as the water from the bowl decreases, a new portion of the liquid will flow into it from the tank. In this case, the float system works – the water in the bowl remains low, so the valve installed in it opens in the tank and the drinking bowl is filled with water. It is rather difficult to make such a drinker yourself, but it can be purchased in finished form.

Nipple Drinkers

The nipple type of drinkers is convenient and practical, since in this case the animals cannot pour out the water – it remains in the tube until the rabbit starts drinking, performing sucking movements.

Each rabbit has its own pipe with a nipple tip.

The disadvantage of this water delivery system is that at low temperatures the water in the tank and in the tubes quickly freezes, so this drinker can only be used in the warm season.

Vacuum Trough

There are several ways to make a drinker from an ordinary plastic bottle, and they should be considered, so the manufacturing process can be carried out independently.

The principle of operation of this design is based on the laws of physics, and to make it, you need to act as follows:

The device of a vacuum drinking bowl for rabbits

  • A bowl having a flat bottom, sides approximately 50 mm high and an elongated shape is fixed to the cage at a height of 100 mm from the floor, so that half of it is inside the cage while the other remains outside.

Homemade vacuum drinker from a tin can and a plastic bottle

  • In a regular plastic bottle of two or one and a half liters of water is drawn. Then the bottle is closed with a lid or even a sheet of paper that is pressed tightly against the neck. Further, the container is quickly turned upside down and placed in a bowl. The neck should not reach to the bottom of 2 ÷ 3 mm. Then the bottle is attached to the cage with wire or clamps.
  • The lid is carefully unscrewed (if paper was used, it is simply pulled out), and the bowl fills with about примерно of water. As pets drink water, water will flow from the bottle to the bowl, filling it to the previous level.

Throttle drinker

This drinker works on the principle of a conventional hand-held washbasin, that is, when you press the choke, installed with the valve in the bottle cap, water starts to flow down the choke through the hole.

Throttle Drinker

The hole in the cover should not be large, but the throttle should easily move up and down in it. As a valve, a rubber gasket can be used that holds the throttle well and closes the opening in the bottle cap in a restful state.

The bottle with this device is fixed vertically on the cage, at a height of 250 ÷ 300 mm from the floor.

Suspended drinking bowl

This is a very simple version of the drinker made from a plastic bottle, it is suspended on wire holders at a height of 250 ÷ 300 mm from the floor. To make such a drinker in the side of the bottle, a notch is made with a width of 100 ÷ 120 mm and a length of almost the entire bottle, departing from the lid and bottom 50 ÷ 60 mm.

The easiest option drinkers

The drinking bowl is fixed on the outside of the cage so that the hole cut in the bottle is turned inward. In the cage at this level, part of the reticular wall is also cut so that the rabbits can easily get to the water. Such a drinker will have to be replenished with water quite often, but it is extremely easy to make.


It is advisable to schedule feeders at the stage of drawing up a drawing of the whole structure. Feed supplies can be of three types:

Sennik between two sections of the cell

  • Senniki most often located between two adjacent cells, and have a V-shaped. They are made together with the design of the cell itself – they, in fact, are part of it. Fresh grass or dry hay is laid in these feeders, and rabbits pull it through the trellised walls.

Simple construction from 100 mm plastic sewer pipe

  • Feeding trough for filling compound feed. This product is necessary for rabbits to enrich their body with minerals and vitamins, which contributes to the rapid growth of animals. Especially this food is important in winter, when there is no grass, fresh vegetables and fruits.

Bunker for feed box

Feeders for feed can be made from metal sheet, plastic pipe used for laying sewers or from other materials. An important condition that must be satisfied for the effective operation of this device is the correct and reliable fixing of the container on the cell wall. The principle of operation of such a device is that the feed enters independently into the bowl, located in the cage, from the tank fixed outside, as it decreases.

  • A device for vegetables, fruits, tops, and other fresh shredded products can be made from any material. It makes it roomy and easy to clean. The feeder must be kept clean, otherwise in it and around it can get harmful insects that can cause various diseases in animals.

Independent production of a multi-level cage

Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to make an exact drawing of a cell or a multi-tiered complex. On the plan it is necessary to foresee the location of feeders and drinkers, especially in those cases if they will be integrated into the overall structure.

Let’s try to make a similar three-tier rabbit cage

In this case, a step-by-step description of the manufacture of a three-tiered cage with a width of 1400 mm, a height of 1900 mm, and a depth of 600 mm is presented.

The work will require the following materials:

Name of materials or accessories Size, mm Quantity Board 100 × 30 10 m Bar 50 × 30 27 m Plywood 15 mm Standard 1 ÷ 2 sheets Metal mesh Wire 0.7 mm, cell 25 × 25 mm 8 m² Metal zinc-coated sheet Thickness 0.6 ÷ 0 , 9 mm 3 m² Self-tapping screws 50 300 ÷ 500 pcs. Nails 60 ÷ 70 100 pcs. Wing locks for standard stock 6 pcs. Hinges for securing hinged queen doors. 12 pcs.

The following table describes the cell mounting process step by step:

Illustration A brief description of the operation of the acquired boards you need to make parts for mounting the frame:
– 100 × 30 × 2250 mm – 4 pcs .;
– 50 × 30 × 1340 mm – 12 pcs .;
– 50 × 30 × 540 mm – 12 pcs .;
– 25 × 30 × 540 mm – 72 pcs. Six identical frame frames with a size of 1340 × 600 mm are assembled from the prepared lumber. Making the frame is easy.
Initially, one is assembled with exact observance of dimensions and squareness, and then it is used as a template for the manufacture of the rest.
Each frame will require two beams of 50 × 30 × 540 mm and two beams of 50 × 30 × 1340 mm in size.
Smaller bars are fixed between two long ones with the help of two screws on each joint. As a result of the installation, six neat, even frames of the same size should be obtained. The next step frame frames are exposed and fixed on the boards of size 100 × 30 × 2250 mm, laid at a distance of the width of the frame.
The distance between the frames forming the frame and the floor of the cage of each tier should be 400 mm.
The space left between the tiers is 180 mm.
The first tier should be raised 400 mm above the ground.
The frames are fastened with two screws, screwed along the intersection diagonal line at the joints of the frame frame and side boards. In the next step, the frames are fastened along the upper edge with two planks laid parallel to the lower one.
It is important to ensure that the frames were perfectly vertical. To check their verticality, the construction level is used. Next, prepare the bars for mounting slatted floor.
Their size should be 25 × 30 × 540 mm. The distance between the battens should be 15 ÷ 20 mm (by light).
They are installed inside the frame frame, and through it, from the side, secured with screws from both sides. In exactly the same way, the floor of cells on all three tiers is sheathed.
If on one of the tiers it is planned to make the mother liquor, where the baby goes around, and where the rabbits will be up to a certain age, then in this place the floor of the cage should be solid and removable.
On the arrangement of the queen cell was described above. Each of the tiers will be divided into two separate cells? between which is mounted a sennik in the form of a Latin letter V. Hay or grass for rabbits will be laid here.
Sennik is formed from four bars, which are installed on both sides of the frame.
The size of the sennik is in the upper part 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, and in the lower part 6 ÷ 8 mm.
It is naturally necessary to achieve a clear correspondence between the position of the inclined crossbars on both sides of the frame. To the doors had a regular rectangular shape, sennik can be made from the boards, cutting off one of their sides at a certain angle and connecting them in the lower part of the inside of the cage. Thus, the outer edge of the cage will be smooth and will play the role of a wall to which the door will abut.
In addition, the facade of the sennik can be cut from plywood with a thickness of 15 mm. The frame of the sennik is sheathed inside along established bars (or cutouts made at an angle in boards or plywood) with a 0.7 mm wire mesh having 25 × 25 mm cells. If the mother cell is planned to be made in the cell, then it is separated from the cell by a plywood or plank wall with a small entrance.
To make this wall easier to fix, additional bars are mounted into the construction, to which the plywood lintel will be attached. The entrance to the wall can be round or semi-circular, but it must be placed at a height of 100 ÷ 120 mm from the floor of the cage – this distance must be maintained so that the rabbits cannot get into the large cage until they can independently overcome this height.
The width of the entrance to the mother liquor should be approximately 150 mm.
After the hole is cut, it must be cleaned with sandpaper, as its edges must be completely smooth. The width of the mother liquor is usually 300 ÷ 350 mm.
The lintel wall is fixed on the bars, then the same wall is mounted on the outside of the cage, and then the roof panel is fixed.
If in the main cell space the roof can be sheathed with metal mesh, then in the mother liquor, it should be solid.
Lastly, a bottom made of plywood is placed in the mother liquor compartment. However, it should not be fastened to the lower bars with self-tapping screws, since after the rabbits grow up and they are transferred to other, more spacious cells, the bottom part of the uterine chamber is removed, washed, dried and set in place for the next okrol. The final stage in the installation of the queen cell is the installation of a folding outer door on it for the entire width of the chamber.
In the lower part of the door are fixed to the timber with two metal hinges. In the middle of the upper part of the door panel is installed lock-heck or bolt. Further, the frame of the cell door is made of 30 × 30 mm bars.
It is made according to the size of the opening formed in the cell wall.
The bars of the door frame are fastened together in the corners with two screws. The illustration shows the finished frame of the door before it is covered with metal mesh. The grid is fixed on the frame with staples and staples. such a fixation will be quite enough. A door with a grid installed on it from the inside looks like this. The hinges on the mesh doors can be mounted at the bottom (then the door will be hinged), or on one side of the opening (in this case, it becomes hinged).
It all depends on the convenience of use in specific conditions. If the cells are installed under a roof, for example, in a shed or in another utility room, the walls and roof of the cells can also be sheathed with a grid.
When installing the structure on the street, the side and rear walls and the roof should be sheathed with plywood or boards. It is very important to make the right ebb under each tier of the cells so that animal waste from the upper cells does not fall into the lower ones.
For the manufacture of castings used metal sheet, which is folded on the sides of the edges. these sides must have a height of 80 ÷ 100 mm.
Ebbs are fixed to the front lower part of the frame under the cage, and the other edge of it is placed on the back wall of the lower cell and extends beyond its limits by 300 ÷ 350 mm.
Thus, it turns out the slope of the ebbs and their protrusion beyond the limits of the construction back – so that they do not interfere with the approach to the rabbit from the front side. The result should be approximately such a cell.
This version of the design for the complexity of execution can be called the easiest and most affordable even for beginners.

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If the principles of cell arrangement for rabbits are clarified, then in drawing up the drawing, if desired, it is quite possible to make your own corrections. But at the same time it is still necessary to always keep in mind that any adult rabbit needs at least 0.5 m² of living space. Better yet, stick to the recommended section sizes, about 1000 mm in length, 600 ÷ 700 in depth, and from 400 to 600 mm in height.

And at the end of the article – a video of the story in which the breeder shares the secrets of the device of improved cells:

Video: an interesting version of the cage for rabbits

Cages for rabbits with their own hands the simplest photo