What Types Of Rabbit Cages Are There?

What types of rabbit cages are there?

The usual design, Mikhailov cells, Zolotukhin cells

There are three main cell types for rabbits. Each type is characterized by special innovations, so depending on the situation and needs, you can easily decide on which cell to choose.

  • Conventional designs. This is the most typical and affordable form, but, alas, not always practical. Such designs have legs, two feeding places and nests separated by a “corridor” and doors.
  • Mikhailov cells belong to the industrial type. They are the most difficult to build, but also the most convenient for rabbits, and for the breeder. It looks a bit like a small farm with ventilation, shelves, heated queen cells, drinkers, and a waste disposal system!
  • Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina are most in demand because they combine convenience, simplicity and practicality. In these designs there is everything necessary for living creatures; rabbits feel at home there – they are less nervous, scared, lead a normal, measured way of life.

In addition, the cells are with an aviary or without him. Initially, you can build a cage without walking, and then finish it – it is convenient and does not take up much space, but for a rabbit will be a pleasant surprise.

Zolotukhin cells and their features

Of all the types of constructions, the cages for rabbits of Zolotukhin are deservedly popular among breeders. Zolotukhin Nikolai Ivanovich – a farmer with great experience, who has been watching these animals for a long time. Based on his observations, he created a cage that is as close as possible to the natural conditions of vital activity of these rodents (as far as possible). It has been scientifically proven that in Zolotukhin’s cells, rabbits feel much better, freer, more actively breeding, and less likely to get sick.

Features cells Zolotukhin.

  1. The grid and the pallet are excluded. According to Zolotukhin, animals are uncomfortable because of the mesh on the floor, so the floor is made of slate or wood, with the exception of a small area at the back of the house. They put the grid (a small area). Rabbits go to the toilet in 90% of cases just at the back wall (where the net will be), and since the floor is at a slight angle, 80% of the waste will roll out to the side of the grate and fall into it.
  2. The design is a beautiful, three-tiered house, designed for 6 individuals.
  3. The feeder is mobile and easy to clean. It is attached to the door of the cage so that one part is outside and the other inside the rabbit cage. This allows you to feed at any time without disturbing the animals.
  4. Stationary mother liquor is absent. In fact, there is no need for it throughout the whole year – this is a temporary dwelling of females, therefore Zolotukhin made the mother-in-law temporary. It settles in the darkened part of the cell and is fenced off by a bar. The straw fits into this darkened part and the female can make her own nest from her. But when the rabbit turns 1 month, the nest is removed.
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Advantages of Zolotukhin cells

If we talk about the advantages of such a design, then here, of course, you can list a lot of points:

  • low cost;
  • convenience of room maintenance and access to rabbits;
  • normal lighting;
  • constant airing with complete exclusion of drafts;
  • "House" compact;
  • such a cell is easy to do with your own hands.

Materials for rabbit cages

All cells have one base: walls, floor, roof, entrances and exits, frame. Based on this, you need to purchase one or another material for construction.

  • The frame is usually made of wooden bars, so that the "house" was reliable.
  • The walls can be built from the grid, if the cell is old, but for the winter it is better to use wood, plywood, so that the air is not allowed to pass. But most often these materials are combined.
  • Wooden legs are optional if the cells are small but desirable. And if the cell is on the street, then they should be about a meter.
  • The floor is recommended to build from the grid or wood.
  • The roof must be reliable. In the case when the cage stands in the open, and not in the rabbit, you must also take care of the roof (slate, soft slate, roofing material) so that during the rain the water does not flow inside.

The first stages of creating a cell

What Types Of Rabbit Cages Are There?

Stages of cell creation

Before embarking on the construction of the cage for rabbits, it is important to clarify some of the most important points and prepare everything.

  1. Dimensions. It is important to know in advance what size the cage will be in order not to lose. It is advisable to make a drawing with exact dimensions or find a finished one – this will avoid many mistakes.
  2. The place where the cell will be located. Depending on where it is located, sizes, some materials may vary. For example, in an open area it is impossible to put a lattice cell (due to a draft), only “houses” on legs are put on the street, and small structures are needed indoors so that it is easy to put them.
  3. Number, size, type of rabbits. Depending on these factors, a large or small cell may be required – it is very important to know in advance.
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How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands?

Cage for rabbits do it yourself

Cages for rabbits can have a diverse design – there are a lot of ideas on the Internet, so you don’t have to do a boring, banal design, especially if it is placed in an open area (everyone has a review). If we talk about the basis, then there is nothing complicated. Below is a step-by-step instruction on how to make a rabbit cage using the Zolotukhin method.

  1. The framework is made of beams with a length of 2 m (5×5 cm) fixed by transverse beams of 0.9 m. The first floor is placed at a height of 50 cm from the ground, the distance between subsequent floors is the same. Total need 3 floors.
  2. The floor of 3 floors is covered with slate or wood, but not completely (so that the back wall material does not reach 17-20 cm, there will be a mesh floor). It is laid with a slight bias (so that the garbage rolls into the grate). The slope can be ensured by laying a beam on the front side of the house (on the floor) – it will raise the level in front.
  3. At the rear wall, where the floor was not reported, fix the grid with small cells directly to the beams.
  4. All floors are divided by slats into 2 parts to separate the senniki. Between the slats keep a distance of 25-30 cm.
  5. The back wall is created from polycarbonate or similar material that can withstand high humidity. All rear walls are made at a small angle (with the exception of the upper floor) – from the bottom of the floor below, to the junction of the mesh and wooden floor above. This inclination is necessary in order for the mesh part of the floor to go outside and not to get inside (one floor below).
  1. On the front of the house make a wall with doors not less than 45 cm wide. The door must be strong, of good material so as not to let the light through. Doors are made on both sides of the structure for the summer queen cell.
  2. Nearby is attached the frame for the departments of walking and fattening. They are divided into parts and fixed with gratings. All doors need latches.
  3. The side walls are made of chipboard or wood.
  1. The roof is placed at a slight angle. It should protrude from all sides by 5 cm. You can use roofing felt, slate or similar roofing material for it.
  2. The mother liquor is built separately. This is a simple 3-wall space with a roof and wooden floor. The side part (entrance) must be separated by a bar 17–20 cm high so that the bunny can jump over it, but the bunny cannot. This bar is necessarily sheathed with metal (so as not to gnaw).
  3. Feeders are installed in the cage on the door, as well as water (nipple drinking bowl).
  4. Senniks are built with the letter V. And they are fastened with the help of bolts or hooks (which rabbits cannot reach).
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Now the cage is ready you can colonize the rabbits. It is only important to check all the details first, to make sure that there are no dangerous, sharp details, so that the animals do not accidentally pricked and scratch them.