Rabbits are not the most difficult at home keeping animals. Despite the fact that some consider them to be very capricious, they do not bring many problems to their owners. Of course, if they do not forget to care for their pets that, however, is not difficult. The advantages of rabbit breeding include the fact that it’s not so difficult to make cages for rabbits with your own hands at home. Even a person who is not very savvy in carpentry can handle this.
Of course, in modern conditions, you can afford to buy ready-made cells. But, firstly, it is much more expensive. And secondly, the rabbit breeder, who managed to build a cage for rabbits with his own hands, even if quite simple, feels the incomparable pride of the creator, who provided his pets with a safe home (maybe even a photo of a memorable moment).
Rabbit dwellings, as a rule, do multilevel. The most ergonomic and common are two-tier and three-tier cells. One tier will not allow to place a large enough population of rabbits, and four or more will be too unstable structure. In addition, the upper tier will be too high for a person of average height, and it is very difficult to clean the cells.
In industrial production, the sheds or cells of the Mikhailov system are most often used, although the designs of Zolotukhin and Maklyakov are also popular. The first allow you to place the maximum number of rabbits on the minimum area, the second minimizes all the hassle of servicing them (cleaning, putting food and water, etc.), and the last two are the golden mean between the first two.
The average size of any kind of cells is approximately 120 × 65 × 50. At the same time, these cells are most often done in two sections. These sizes are acceptable for fairly large breeds, up to gray or white giants. In the case of breeding smaller rocks, the cells can also be made somewhat smaller.
Separately, it should be noted wooden cages for domestic dwarf species contained in the apartment. As a rule, these are decorative dwarfs, which do not need a very large cell. On the other hand, it should also be equipped with everything necessary for a comfortable eared clean. But such a cage for rabbits to do it yourself is not very difficult.
Any of the above options for rabbit cages is simple enough to build with your own hands that “street” that home. Of course, cells designed for the dilution of an industrial profile require more effort and competence in this matter than their decorative counterparts. However, it is not very difficult, especially if a person knows how to “read” the drawings correctly.
Now how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands. Of course, each of the schemes or designs of cells has its own characteristics: the location of the drinkers, the presence / absence of the “bedroom”, the principle of the device door. However, these are the details, and the general drawings for the cage, for the most part, are quite similar.
All cells have a standard shape.
As well as the necessary materials, as well as the sequence of manufacturing cells. The differences, in the first place, usually relate to the size of the cells. For large breeds it is placed in a meter or more, for those that are smaller – from 70 to 90 cm. The presence of the built-in mother liquor is also taken into account.
Preparation of materials
Of course, before embarking on the construction of the cage, it is necessary to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. These include:
- thick plywood, boards, chipboard – for the inner walls;
- strong wooden bars – for supports and frame;
- fine-meshed metal mesh – for external walls;
- slats – for the floor;
- boards, mesh or plywood – for the roof;
- roofing material – in case the cage will be made in an open space, and not in the pavilion. Linoleum, polycarbonate or smooth slate are best suited for this purpose;
- tools, fasteners and components of the cell: hammer, tape measure, screwdriver, nails, screws, screws, hinges, valves, feeders and drinkers;
Before you begin to make a cage for rabbits, you should carefully verify the quality of the selected materials. Wooden parts need to be thoroughly treated with sandpaper to remove all possible splinters. The grid should be without bent or sharp protrusions, and the roof should be intact, without holes, and not crumble. Hurry up in preparation is undesirable. Fast does not mean better.
Having prepared all the materials, tools and components, you can go directly to the most important thing – the construction of an improvised cage. It is better to have at hand a drawing of cages for rabbits (photos of schemes are not very difficult to find and download), but, theoretically, you can do without them:
- A rectangular frame is knocked out of the bars. In case the assembled cage should be two- or three-tier, 15 cm gaps for pallets should be left between future tiers;
- Between the bars (front and rear) are filled transverse slats, which will hold the first tier. Followed by a similar procedure;
- The sections of the future cells themselves are divided into two unequal parts. The section that will be closer to the sennik, as well as going out to the door, will be with a slatted floor and mesh walls, and will also take up about two thirds of the space. The rest is the “bedroom” (for males) or the mother liquor (for females). It is made with solid walls of plywood or chipboard, with a round entrance. It is there that the animals will climb at night, in the cold season. In addition, this is the place where females will give birth and raise their offspring.
- The legs, about 30-40 cm in height, are nailed to the ready-made rectangular frames. The legs are necessary for further carrying, if necessary, one;
- Now turn the door. They are twisted from rails and screws (the process can be seen in more detail in many videos), after which they are upholstered with a grid, which is fastened from the inside with a construction stapler. The front side of the door must be inclined. This is necessary in order to have a place for sennik;
- You can hang the doors on the hinges and attach lugs to them. The most convenient are the doors that open (more precisely, recline) from top to bottom. This will facilitate the subsequent feeding and cleaning of the cells;
- Having finished with a basis of cells, it is time to collect a sennik. It is usually assembled in the shape of a letter V and located between two cells, creating enough space for laying hay;
- The final step will be the installation of the inclined pallets in the designated sections. To facilitate the collection of manure, the slope of the pallets is made to the front wall. It is possible to tilt to the rear only if there is access in the future.
On this, in principle, everything. As you can see from the instructions, making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is not so difficult.
Making mother liquor
In paragraph 3 of the assembly of cages for rabbits with their own hands, the need to divide it into two sections is mentioned, one of which will be the mother liquor. A clarification should be made here. During the construction of the premises, it should be borne in mind that it should be made very well insulated, and without any lattice walls. First of all, because the mother liquor is used for females and young animals. Rabbits are fearful animals, and they need a place where they can hide from danger, even if it is sighted. In nature, these would be burrows. In artificial conditions this role is played by the mother liquor. For the same reason, the entrance to it is made round.
Rabbit’s instincts will allow them to feel completely safe if such an entrance leads to the room, as well as inside is completely dark and warm. All of these points are especially important for pregnant rabbits, or for those who have already given birth to and feed the rabbits.
In general, good queen cells are a very important component of the cell, and we should not forget about it. It is advisable to attend to its assembly even before making cages for rabbits. Sometimes mothers of rabbits and young animals are made immediately in the process of assembling the cage, being built into the structure. But they can also be made separately, simply by installing them subsequently into place and fixing them there. One way or another, the manufacturing process of the mother liquor is approximately the same for any variant, and below is a step-by-step instruction on the manufacture of this important room.
- plywood or chipboard – on the wall;
- one rail with dimensions 2.5 by 2.5 cm;
- small boards 2.5 cm thick;
- one long or two short canopies;
- hammer, hacksaw, pencil, tape measure, nails;
- On each of the side walls, two blanks are cut out of plywood or particle board, measuring approximately 35 by 30 cm. The front and rear walls, as well as the bottom and roof are made with dimensions of 30 by 50 cm. In case the mother liquor is located separately, then the roof being opened and extended in size by about 5 cm;
- Now, one blank from each pair should be sheathed around the perimeter with slats;
- Sawdust is poured into the resulting structure, which will play the role of insulation, and we pile the second pair of blanks on top. The procedure is done for all walls, except the front, which will be the entrance;
- The entrance wall is insulated only half, and the second half is “sewn up” with boards with a round hole-entrance. The approximate diameter of the latter is about 15-20 cm, height – about 10 cm. The exact dimensions depend on the breed of rabbit breeding;
- After all this, the walls are put together in the manner of the box. The roof can be attached using a canopy so that it can be easily opened. In this case, the mother liquor is subsequently easier to clean.
By collecting this, in fact, simple design, you can be sure that the rabbit and the young will be warm and comfortable even in fairly severe frosts.