How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands
Variants of various cells, houses and enclosures for rabbits are now so many that the description of all of them taken together will take thousands and thousands of pages of text.
Therefore, especially for this situation, I have prepared for you a detailed, step-by-step instruction on how to build a rabbit cage with my own hands in literally half a day.
In general, this variant of the cage can be attributed to the universal one and it can be used not only in “emergency” cases, but also for breeding and keeping rabbits in any quantities and in any situation.
We will immediately prepare the necessary materials and tools:
Lumber – 0.2 m³ (three-four-layer plywood or board-loops with a thickness of 2-2.5 cm, a bar with a section of 5×5 or 5×3 cm).
Galvanized grid section of 16×48 mm – 2 m², on the floor, doors and nursery.
Nails – 0.6 kg or screws.
Note: before you begin to assemble the cage frame, thoroughly cut all the bars. This will make it possible to achieve a tighter connection of all the structural elements and avoid the occurrence of drafts in the nest compartment.
So, we collect the skeleton of the cage and fix the galvanized floor to it:
Putting the cell frame.
After we put the back wall and, slightly grabbing the grid floor, fasten the bottom for the nesting compartment:
Put the back wall of the cell.
Next, we complete the skeleton of the cage and fasten the side walls, including the side walls for nesting compartments:
Fasten the cover to the socket.
In a transverse bar we divide the cell into two sections:
We make 2 bunker feeders:
We turn over the cage and fix the mesh bottom with the help of rails and nails:
Fix the mesh bottom.
Fix the mesh bottom in the cage.
Making a bunker for feeders.
Making a bunker for feeders.
Check the performance of feeders:
We make a nursery for roughage:
Note: if there are no wire rods, then a mesh with a cross section of 2×5 cm or a similar mesh with similar openings with an area of 1 dm² will be suitable for this purpose.
Fasten the roof and slider door for feeders and nurseries:
The cover should be free to go into the groove.
We put a handle from a bar trim on a slider cover
Make and install the door, consisting of two frames and a grid between them. Do not forget about the rotary shutter for each door.
Fasten the door to the rabbit cage.
We check the ease of opening and closing each door.
Fasten the door, consisting of two frames.
All cage is ready for the settlement of rabbits.
Cage for rabbits ready.
Of course, this cell design can cause you a lot of questions, especially laying feed through the top cover, but all this is done for a reason. The fact is that this cage is optimal precisely for keeping rabbits in dacha conditions, as it can be used both outdoors and indoors. Simply put, you can modify it as much as you like.
As can be seen from the photo, the original version of the cell does not imply its installation in the open air, because it does not have a waterproof roof. If you plan to keep rabbits outdoors, then it will take literally 1-2 hours to install the roof on such a cage. All you need to do is to knock down a light frame and lay 2 sheets of slate or ondulin, or any other similar roofing material on top.
In this case, another logical question arises: why make a double roof, when instead of plywood covers you can immediately lay the roofing material?
With such a constructive approach, you will solve two main problems of rabbit breeding: this is the fight against drafts and the fight against heat.
Everyone knows that rabbits are not so much afraid of the cold as they are drafts. So, if instead of a plywood cover attach a wavy slate, the "walking" of ice drafts in the winter is provided to your rabbits. Particularly relevant is the solution to this problem in the early spring, when all the breeders puzzled over how to keep the first litters of rabbits, saving them from the severe night frosts.
No less dangerous for rabbits exhausting heat. After all, almost any roofing material easily passes heat and, heating up in the sun, turns a cage for rabbits into a real “gas chamber” in which rabbits, especially young animals, die because of the heat. That is, in fact, putting additional roofing material, you create a kind of buffer zone between the roof and plywood covers.
There is another point concerning the modification of the cell under the street version. Very often, many gardeners do not have the opportunity to be at the cottage every day all summer, and thus there are problems with feeding rabbits.
So, the variant of this cage proposed by me allows the rabbits to be given food for almost a whole month. Only a built-in bunker can accommodate an 8-liter bucket of compound feed, which is 6 kg of feed.
And it is here that such a convenient arrangement of the door for feeding the food appears, because if you wish, you can put another bunker there. While with the side feed (classic version), installing additional bunkers has always been a problem.
If desired, a two-tier cellular battery can be easily made from such cells. All that needs to be done is to put one cage on another by placing a tray to collect rabbit droppings under the cage of the upper tier. A high mobility of such cells (easily transferred) allows you to quickly disassemble such a battery and put the cells in storage in any utility room, such as a barn.
Disinfection of rabbit cells and equipment
Rabbits, like other types of domestic animals, are very often subject to all sorts of diseases. In some cases vaccinations cope with some diseases, however, there is such an infection as, for example, coccidiosis, with which the rabbit dies in 95% of cases.
It occurs because of the high moisture in the cells and increased ammonia vapors. In order to successfully fight against coccidiosis, and not only with it, rabbit cages are recommended to be disinfected 2-3 times a month.
For disinfection, you will need a gasoline or propane lamp. And the disinfection itself is carried out as follows: we set the rabbit in another cage and with the help of a lamp we burn the entire inner surface of the cage together with feeders and drinkers. Especially keep the flame at the net floor and wooden bars. It is in these places and accumulates all the infection.
Gnawed, gnawed and we gnaw!
Yes, gnawing rabbits wooden elements of cages and equipment – it has always been and will be a problem for all breeders. This happens for two reasons:
Rabbits constantly grow front incisors, and they need to wash them.
Rabbits do not have enough minerals, and they partially compensate them with bars and boards impregnated with ammonia.
The second reason to fight is quite simple. All you have to do is balance the nutrition of the rabbits by adding chalk, salt and mineral premixes to the feed.
But the first problem, the breaking of cells, is difficult to fight, but it is possible. Thin sheet iron comes to the rescue here, i.e. tin.
The tin must be cut into thin strips and all the protruding wooden joints should be hammered with it, namely: the edges of the feeders, the frame elements, the manhole in the nesting compartment and absolutely everything that rabbits can try to gnaw.