Features of the cell in 2 tiers
Bunk cages for rabbits is a simplified version of a well-known three-tier structure. But if the three floors look quite cumbersome, the two-story construction is very light. This type of cage accommodates 2-4 rabbits and has one or two sections on each “floor”.
- height – 200-220 cm;
- width of the structure as a whole 140 cm;
- width of one residential compartment – 50 cm, depth and height of 60 cm;
- 10 cm from each edge of the structure are set aside for the feeder;
- between the living compartments is a sennik, its width at the top is about 20 cm.
All cages for rabbits are designed according to general principles, but different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of constructions depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit farmer plans to contain.
Depending on whether the rabbit cage will be outdoors or indoors, you should select suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cells can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.
For rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults), special conditions of maintenance are required, respectively, and the cells for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn baby rabbits are contained in special uterine cells with nests.
Cell size should be planned in such a way that animals have enough space and space. Obviously, the cages for giant rabbits and dwarf individuals will be very different from each other.
The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of the future residents.
The optimal size for a spacious cage, which contain a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:
- Length – 120-170 cm;
- Width – 60–80 cm;
- Height – 50–60 cm.
Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will have enough more modest conditions:
- Length – 70–90 cm;
- Width – 35–55 cm;
- Height – 30-50 cm.
Giant rabbits will need much more space:
- Length – 85–100 cm;
- Width – 70–80 cm;
- Height – 60–80 cm.
Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous maintenance of a large number of rodents of different sex and age. To help the breeders come multi-tier structures for keeping animals.
Popular with owners of rabbit farms are multi-tiered cells according to Zolotukhin’s drawings. They have several advantages:
- The ability to keep in one place all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males);
- It is convenient to care for animals;
- Zolotukhin’s cells are rather mobile – they can be moved from place to place.
If the rabbit with rabbit dwells in the cage, then they definitely need to arrange a secluded place
Depending on the purpose, the rabbit cells are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:
- Standard cage for permanent maintenance. The drawing of such a cage is easy to find on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. Attention should be paid to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of materials;
- The cage for breeding should be much more spacious, since it will simultaneously contain several individuals;
- A special type of house for a rabbit with rabbits or a pregnant female is called a mother liquor. A lonely place and warmth – these are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbit. As a rule, the mother liquor has solid walls, a kind of house that mimics a cramped hole, and devices for feeding the mother;
- The cage for young stock meets the standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional paddock for walking. The opportunity to warm up a little has a positive effect on the growth and development of young sturdy cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often gives animals access to fresh grass.
The optimal temperature around for normal well-being rabbits – 14-16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from rain and wind are basic requirements for the design of rabbit cages.
In large rabbit farms, rodent maintenance in winter and summer provides for various types of cages. Winter is insulated with OSB or other fiber, sometimes they carry out water heating.
In regions with a temperate climate without sudden temperature changes, year-round rabbits can be kept in the same portable structures, which are transferred to a closed room when the first cold comes. In the summer, these cells are again transported to the open air.
Most novice rabbit breeders contain eared pets in single tier cages. However, this housing is enough for a small number of livestock.
Animals multiply quickly and they need to settle somewhere. Only one way out. It is necessary to increase the number of cells. If you put them in one row, you will need a large area.
In this situation, rescue a two-tier cage for rabbits of their own making.
Standard bunk cages for rabbits are structures 1.5 m wide and from 1.8 to 2.2 m high. The design is divided into sections. The number of animals depends on their number. Usually in this house lives 2-4 adults. As for the dimensions of the section itself, its width is 50 cm, and its height and depth is 60 cm.
Sections are divided by a V-shaped sennik. The width of its upper part is 20 cm. Each compartment is equipped with a feeder, which takes up about 10 cm of free space.
Attention! Standard cell sizes can be changed at their discretion, but only in a big way.
If the rabbit with the offspring is contained in the cage, you need to take care of the queen cell. The floor in this compartment is laid solid from the board. Immediately it is necessary to decide where the drinkers and feeders will be located, to determine the design of the partitions.
The design of the cell depends on the place of its installation. In the barn the house is sheathed with a grid, and on the street they make solid walls, and they are also warmed for the winter. If free space allows, you can build a walking range for young animals. The net enclosure is attached to the back of the main house.
The photo shows a diagram of a two-tier structure. The cage can be made according to the specified dimensions or make your own calculations. In general, the dimensions of housing for rabbits depend on their breed.
Requirements for the installation of the rabbit cage are the same regardless of their design. On the street, a two-story construction with an aviary is installed where there are no drafts. Perfectly suited slightly shaded place under the trees. Rabbits will be able to walk all day without being exposed to overheating under the sun.
Tip! Rabbit breeding provides for the maintenance of animals on the street and indoors. Best eared pets suitable open way of breeding.
Not bad to put a two-story construction near the wall of any building.
And even better if the top will be a canopy. An additional roof will cover the house from precipitation and scorching sunlight.
When installing cells indoors, care must be taken to remove manure. If it accumulates a lot, animals will inhale the emitted harmful gases, which will lead to their death. In addition, the shed must be equipped with ventilation, but without drafts.
Now we will try to consider in detail how to make your own two-story housing eared pets. For those who have already built single-tier cells, it will not be difficult to make such a design.
The skeleton is the skeleton of the cell. It is a rectangular structure, assembled from frames and fastened with vertical uprights. Assemble the construction of the timber section 50×50 mm. The photo shows a variant of the framework of a single-tier cage for rabbits with their own hands, where the compartments will be separated by a V-shaped sennik. For a two-story house collect two such designs.
Corner racks make solid, that is, common. Intermediate racks that separate compartments, set for each tier of their own. This is due to the fact that between the first and second floor there is a free space of about 15 cm.
A pallet will be installed here in the future. You can opt out of solid corner posts and assemble two separate frames. They are put on each other, but they provide for the legs on the upper structure in order to get a gap for the pallet.
You can build cages for rabbits with your own hands from scrap materials: waste boards, plywood, chipboard, slate, bricks, metal carving, tin, etc. The design of the cells is also different, but it is better to choose the one that does not take much time for you to make and will be convenient for feeding rabbits, inspecting them and regular cleaning.
- 1 Kinds of cages for rabbits and possible materials for doing their own hands
- 2 General step by step instructions for making at home
- 3 Other rabbit house options
How to make a bunk cage for rabbits drawing
Planning the construction of rabbit cages, the first thing to think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, for the construction of a simple structure that can protect animals from adverse external factors, any available means will do.
In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that practically any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with all responsibility.
Even a beginning breeder can handle a wooden cage
Wood in the construction of the cage for rabbits is used very widely. From it you can make any structural elements. It is from a wooden bar that the frame of the future cell is usually made. The floor of wooden slats is also popular with rabbit breeders.
The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden elements can easily be given almost any shape. Do not lose sight of the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood: in the winter in a wooden rabbit, it will be warm, and in the summer – not too hot.
Among the shortcomings is to provide rapid destruction. Rabbits love to gnaw everything around, so the wooden elements of the internal decoration of the cage are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, the wood, due to its porous structure, absorbs all odors and liquids, therefore, it is not recommended to put a solid wood floor in a cage.
Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill.
Metal in comparison with wood is more durable material for construction. Rabbits cannot gnaw through metal elements, they are easy to wash and insects are not afraid of them. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.
The skeleton of the future cell is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior decoration of wooden cells in order to prevent gnawing of natural material. But the roof and the outer walls of the metal cage are not recommended, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which is fraught with danger to the health of eared residents.
Galvanized profile is used in combination with other materials. In contrast to the all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.
Plastic is light and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat.
Plastic pipes can be an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cells for use in all conditions.
When working with plastic, it is important to remember about animal safety. Internal structural elements that can get "to the tooth" rabbits should not be made of plastic. An animal can injure the mouth or esophagus with splinters, and also poison itself with synthetic substances that make up the material.
Bricks and clay
Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit cages primarily in hot regions. Bricks lay the grounds for the houses, and clay seams are coated with clay. Such a cage well protects animals from overheating, as the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.
The walls of the cages for rabbits are made solid, in the form of a grid of slats, or made of mesh. The most convenient option is the one with a grid, which should have cells of medium or small size and be strong enough.
The most practical material for making a roof in a rabbit cage is slate. It will perfectly perform a protective function, while not overheating in the sun and not afraid of moisture.
Rabbits are not the most fastidious animals to care for. As temporary housing or in conditions of critical economy, suitable houses made of scrap materials. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers for rodent maintenance, or they assemble multi-storey structures from industrial pallets.
Each material has special properties that can be both a plus and a minus. Guided in the choice should, based on the advice of experienced breeders, individual conditions (climate, breed of animals, etc.) and instructions to popular drawings, if you plan to use them.
Growing and breeding rabbits is a profitable occupation. If for animals to create optimal living conditions and growth, then with a minimum of costs you can get quite a big benefit.
Of considerable importance is the independent preparation of nutritious food and the manufacture of cages for rabbits with your own hands.
The article offers a guide to the process of making houses with photos and video viewing.
Before you build a cage for a rabbit, you need to thoroughly consider the design and make a drawing. Dimensions will be shown on it, details of the cage for rabbits will be drawn.
Dimensional drawings or diagrams will help to accurately calculate the amount of materials needed, which is quite difficult to do without accurately drawing all the details.
The drawing will be needed in the event of a design change during the assembly process, it will be clearly seen which elements need to be redone and which elements remain the same.
Common requirements for homemade rabbit cages are:
- the required space, expressed by the floor area;
- ease of manufacture;
- convenience in cleaning, disinfection, feeding and transplanting;
- long-term operation;
- low cost of materials and as a result of the final product.
A common and convenient option for home rabbit cages is recognized as double rooms connected in pairs. Such designs are perfectly used in the cultivation of rabbit young, but there are other options for the connection and location of rabbit houses:
- single section;
- compact sets consisting of three sections;
- large group cells for young animals.
To avoid wasting extra space, the cells are made depending on the age of its animal breed (growth) and the number of representatives in the house. The standard sizes are:
- their length is from 1.2 m to 1.5 m;
- width is preferably 0.6–0.8 m;
- the internal height of the wall to the ceiling is from 0.35 to 0.5 m:
- for young rabbits the length of the house is reduced to 0.9 m;
- one adult livestock should have at least 0.7 square meters. m, young rabbits successfully live on 0.2 square meters. m
Rabbits of the main livestock are grown in single-tier and two-tier arranged cages, but in the rabbitry it is better to use single-tier houses. If animals are bred for meat, then you can put the houses in three tiers, although such a multi-storey house for rabbits did not receive much popularity.
In a multi-tiered structure, manure clearance is difficult, it is inconvenient to carry out feeding, and routine inspection of pets in the lower and upper tier takes much longer. Mechanical distribution of feed is practically not feasible.
Cage for rabbits from the net is done with openings of 2.5 by 5.0 cm or 2.5 by 2.5 cm. A galvanized or plastic-coated metal grid with smaller cells is used on the floors.
Sometimes the floor is made of hard wood, it is gathered from slats with a cross section of 2.5 by 3.0 cm, in the process of making the floor, the sharp edges of the slats are rounded off and sandpaper.
Reiki is gained at a distance of 1.6-1.8 cm from one another.
Young rabbits during the fattening and growth period are kept in the same room, so a separate house is made for them, the appearance of which can be seen in the photo.
Newborn rabbits with rabbits are also placed in a common separate room, then the house is made into two sections for the main herd of the young and the uterine section.
Houses made by own hands are placed on a certain elevation from the common floor in the room or the ground.
It is advisable to choose a natural material for building cells (thick plywood, bars, planks, slats from wood). About the grid said above and given the size of its cells.
To cover the roof using different materials, you can apply residues from the cover of the house.
To connect wooden parts, you need screws and nails, you need iron sheets and devices for hanging the doors of the cage, locking devices in the form of hooks or bolts.
Straw is used for winter wall and floor insulation.
If you make cells that can be moved or moved, then it is especially important to choose the optimal place in the winter cold and turn the facade of the house in the warmest direction.
Farmers are popular installation of rabbit houses outside, that is, in the open air. Home cages set at a height of 0.5 m from the ground, provide a good roof.
In this case, the ventilation problem is spontaneously solved, and the animals receive natural sunlight.
The houses turn the entrance to the south side, located in the windproof and calm from the strong wind places, without drafts. To make it easier to clean up after pets, a ditch is made under the cage to drain waste. In the summer, the cells are covered with suitable material from the direct sun or a removable canopy is made.
Do-it-yourself rabbit cages: dimensional drawings, step-by-step instructions for making varieties (Mikhailov, Zolotukhin, bunk and others) with photo and video
Breeding rabbits is very profitable and not very difficult task. They do not need special care and extraordinary conditions of detention, which is why a pair of eared animals can be made at their summer cottage.
Growing rabbits engaged a large number of novice farmers. And first of all, what should I get is cages for domestic rabbits. They are not only purchased, but you yourself can easily make rabbit cages with your own hands.
These eared little animals do not need special conditions of detention. It is for this reason that it is not necessary to buy cells: you can build them yourself. The advantages of homemade houses:
- When building you can take into account the characteristics of the room, its location, as well as conditions of detention.
- Less expensive.
- Rabbit cells with their own hands will not be defective, but with the factory this can happen.
- You can make cells of any design.
Advantages of factory cells:
- Perfect design with the necessary conditions for the life of domestic rabbits
- In the building are drinking bowls, trays, feeders and nests.
- Constantly in the process of improvement, the design becomes more complex: by purchasing a factory cell, the farmer can be sure that this equipment is modern.
But acquiring ready-made cages is quite expensive, while home-made cages for rabbits are low-cost.
With a serious desire to engage in the cultivation of rabbits, you need to build more than one room, but several. To provide housing for rabbits, you need to build a whole complex. It is installed both in the fresh air and in the barn – it depends on the natural conditions of the region.
Cell drawings for rabbits can be developed independently, and also they can be found on the Internet or in a magazine.
Cages for keeping males. Males need to settle in individual houses. This should be done in order to avoid fights, competition for food, as well as unplanned mating.
Such effects can affect reproductive function: rabbits will not produce offspring.
Cages for keeping bunnies with cubs. Such cells should be spacious. They are lined up in one tier and are made up of two compartments – this is the main and mother department. In order for the rabbits not to freeze in winter, it is necessary to warm the uterine compartment.
Cages for feeding baby rabbits. Rabbits who have reached the age of 2-3 months and have not gained proper weight when fed with a rabbit will populate these cages. To give the female an opportunity to acquire new offspring, the older rabbits are deposited in a separate cage and fattened until a suitable weight is reached.
To date, there are many modifications, but still the most popular and running design remains a two-sectioned cell.
House for adult animals can be built with your own hands. It will take several hours to build a dwelling, but you can be sure that the construction is correct and contains everything you need to contain rabbits. Instructions for making:
- From 4 wooden bars build the frame of the future house. The framework must be rectangular in shape, and its dimensions are relative to the width and length of the future structure;
- The house must be installed on the legs. Use 4 beams: 2 lengths equal to the height of the front wall and add 30 cm, and the rest – the height of the back wall and add 30 cm too. ). They need to be screwed to a rectangular base so that it rises above the floor level by 30 cm. This will serve as a little house with its legs.
- It is necessary to attach the grid to the rectangular base of the floor so that it covers the middle of the room. Leave a space of 35–40 cm in each side – this is necessary for nesting compartments. Using plywood, cover the floor in the nesting compartments so that it reaches the grid slightly.
- Now install the back and side walls of plywood and add the frame structure. To do this, you need to attach between the side front bars 1 long beam at the very top of the house.
- Nest compartments fence off the rest of the premises. Among these strips, as well as the back wall, you need to install dividers – plywood with holes made. These holes are designed for free movement of rabbits between the feed compartments and nests. Attach the cover to all the nests.
- The room is divided into two sections intersecting timber. Build feeders out of plywood, then screw them on opposite sides of the rail that separates the room.
- To keep the bottom firmly, you need to turn the design and fix the grid with nails and rails.
- From the 4 sheets of plywood make a bunker designed for feeders. The height of the plywood sheets should be slightly less than the structure. The bunker itself must have the shape of a letter V and be extended upwards. It is attached among the feeders in such a way that after you have filled in the food, it will easily fall into the feeders through this funnel.
- Close to the back wall, build feeders for coarse foods, such as grass and hay. In width, they should be 30 cm. For the convenience of the rabbits in eating and pulling out the grass, from both sides make partitions from wire rods.
- Attach the cover to your design, which should protrude slightly above the cage. In the place where the feeders are located, make a slider door that can be pulled out when the feed is filled. To make it more comfortable you can attach a handle to it.
- Next, attach the doors, which are made of slats, to the front wall. In the middle of the rails pull the grid. Nest compartments can be left without doors, but solid doors can also be attached.
Now your cage for rabbits is ready, it is very easy to find drawings of this type of construction.
When they reach three months, the rabbits are kept in groups of 6–8 individuals, based on this, they are grown using group dwellings. They are constructed in the same way as the previous cell.
Differ only in the fact that for a larger number of rabbits you need another system for feeding.
Step by step instructions for production:
- The frame is made in the same way as the frame for adult animals. Only the division into sections there is no need. Such a house will consist only of aft and nesting compartment. By the way, it will take a nested compartment and a half times less than the feed.
- Cover the bottom of the nest compartment with a tree tree, and then fence off with plywood with holes to move from the stern compartment.
- The front part and the floor of the aft compartment should be made of the grid. The door, made with slats, is mounted in the front.
- The feeder is installed along the entire length of the aft compartment. One part of it should be in the cage, and the second – outside. It is made of mesh so that the rabbits can comfortably reach the grass. It is advised to raise it by 3-4 cm, so that the food of animals is not contaminated by waste.
In such a cage, you can simultaneously contain 12 animals, and there are also ready-made drawings for the manufacture of this design.
These houses are made according to the same instructions as the two-section structures. But in this structure several cells are placed in tiers above each other. Stages of work:
- Build three rectangular frames – this is the future floor and roof.
- Secure them on the long bars. The first rectangle should be fixed on the bars so that legs 30 cm long are placed at the bottom. Attach the next rectangle 50 cm above the first and the third 10 cm above the second.
- Fix the galvanized net, which will serve as the floor of the aft compartment, on the first and third rectangle. Equip these two houses in the same way as a cage intended for adult animals.
- The second rectangle is designed for the lower roof, and also serves as the upper pallet. Among the second and third rectangle will need to install a box that will be removed. In this box will be poured waste from the top tier.
According to this principle, you can build a two-tier and three-tier houses. Drawings that are also easy to find.
Before making a house for a rabbit with a nest, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the features of this design. Such a house is built separately from other structures.
A plus is that it will be portable. Then you can easily move the structure from the street to the shed and vice versa.
- Assemble the frame of the future house, using plywood to make the wall – the back and side. In this house there should be two departments: the main and uterine.
- For each compartment make a separate door: to the section with the rabbit – from the grid, to the womb – with the help of plywood or boards.
- To prevent your household from freezing, you need to insulate the mother liquor. It is recommended to build a double floor in it, in the middle of which lay a heater, for example, straw, foam plastic or any other.
- The cover should be covered with waterproof material.
If the farmer has a large plot, then the house with a walk in this case is a great option. They look the same as ordinary cages for rabbits, but in the back there is a door through which they can be let out for a walk.
The space for walking can be done with your own hands just by building a large aviary behind the cage. What is the advantage of a rabbit house with a walk? The bottom line is that the animals need space to run.
If they can be in the fresh air and periodically have the opportunity to stretch their paws, then they will be much less likely to get sick, quickly recover and be more intensely fruitful. Even in this case, the fur will be more fluffy and beautiful.
Finding a place for your home depends on the climate conditions in your area. If winter frosts visit your region very rarely, then rabbit cages can be installed outside.
But you need to choose a place where there are no drafts and excess moisture, because rabbits are subject to colds. When installing longline cells, it is better to place them in two rows and with facades to each other so that a person can pass between the rows.
Rabbits do not prefer strong lighting, but if their house is located in a shed, then it should be equipped with a couple of lamps. Their homes should be lit 8-10 hours throughout the day. When building cells with your own hands, you should use the following materials:
- reiki, parallel bars, plywood;
- galvanized mesh with cells;
- plastic applicable in the finishing work;
- slate for the roof, if the rabbit house on the street.
Choosing the cage option for rabbits, you can stop the choice on the cage Zolotukhin or Mikhailov
Cage for decorative rabbits
In addition to the covered part, there must be an open cage in the cage for decorative rabbits.
The larger the dwelling for the decorative rabbit, the better. The comfort of the animal is also provided by the construction of two-storey structures or open-air cages. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors are much lower for the construction of the dwelling.
The floor in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of ornamental rodents is prone to inflammation and deformity, as it does not have soft pads.
Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves the use of the following materials:
- Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden boards: it is better to take with a stock, focusing on the size of the cell (90x60x45 cm);
- Sheet metal (tin can be used): 90×60 cm;
- Wooden slats;
- Metal mesh: 60×45 cm minimum;
- Self-tapping screws or nails;
- Accessories for doors.
Tools for work:
- Saw, handsaw or jigsaw;
- Screwdriver or hammer;
- Nippers or scissors for metal;
Drawing of a many-tier cage for decorative rabbits
Dimensions in the drawing are in centimeters. The size and design of the cage is optimal for keeping one adult in a heated room.
- Construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit starts from the floor. From a chipboard or wooden board, a base of 90×60 cm is cut out.
- A metal shield of a similar size is placed on a wooden base.
- Then from a tree or a chipboard prepare boards for walls in the sizes: 45х60 cm.
- The frame is assembled with nails or screws.
- The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. The optimal size for the door is 30×30 cm.
- The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and installed inside the cage.
- The ladder is made of slats, observing a width of at least 15 cm, and set it close to the second tier, carefully fastening.
A cage for keeping decorative rabbits is easy to make. Even beginner breeders with no experience in construction and design will cope with the task. It is not necessary to paint the cell surface with paints and varnishes, since rodents can be poisoned by toxic substances, gnawing through the structural elements.