Breeding rabbits requires patience and knowledge of their physiology. Without this, it will not be possible to achieve results. In winter, rabbits feel better in a heated room specially designated for them, which is called rabbitry. For home breeding suitable small barn frame type.
Mini-rabbit for multiple cells
What should be rabbitry
In order for the rabbits to feel normal, not sick, grow well and multiply quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding to conditions of detention, often suffer from poor conditions. To prevent this, they need the following conditions:
The optimum temperature is 14-16 ° C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place remote from heating appliances, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is disadvantageous. But a smooth rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sudden drops. From all this it follows that a warmed rabbitry must be built, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning. Rabbit makers built according to frame technology with mineral wool insulation are most justified (thickness is calculated depending on the region). Not less attention should be paid to warming the floor and ceiling. Roofing material can be without insulation, it should provide protection from moisture. In this case, you need to take care of the insulation of the ceiling. It is cheaper to put a layer of expanded clay on the overlap, to put a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then to dry dried clay you can at least throw out the leaves for additional thermal insulation.
Certain conditions are required for normal well-being.
Construction rabbit – serious scope
The rate of weight gain and fur density is also influenced by the rabbit’s illumination and the length of the daylight hours. The most active rabbits are at dusk and at night. Bright lighting for them is undesirable. A sufficient level of illumination – for adults 50-70 lux, for young animals for fattening – 25-30 lux. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so in winter the light is obligatory, but dim. So that when servicing the rabbitry, it is more comfortable for lighting, install an additional few light bulbs above the cells, but bring them to the second switch (or the second key). Another option is to set the brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead of the usual switch, allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.
The easiest way to keep rabbits – in cages under a canopy in the open air. But this option is available in regions with more or less mild winters. Often this kind of content is practiced at the beginning of the “rabbit breeder’s career,” but gradually it comes to the fact that rabbitry is needed. It is just that during the winter the livestock often decreases significantly, the feed consumption increases significantly, and the weight gain is very small. It turns out, it is more profitable to build a rabbit and heat it.
The arrangement of cells in the rabbitry in two rows is convenient
On the other hand, in the summer, in the fresh air, rabbits feel better, grow faster, and the air quality problem is solved in an “automatic mode”. The length of the day in the summer in most parts of the region is close to optimal, so often you have to make a canopy for rabbits, and an indoor rabbit. The cells at the same time try to make a small weight, portable. With the onset of heat, they are taken out into the street, in the fall, before being cooled, they are brought into the rabbitry. Summertime is used to repair and disinfect the premises. It is best to whitewash lime walls mixed with chlorine solution. This is done in early summer. Chlorine quickly disappears, but does its job – kills fungi and parasites.
Sizes and design of rabbit cells
The size of the cages for rabbits depends on the breed. The larger the rabbits, the more space they need. On average, the height of the cage is 500-700 mm, the roof can be sloped backwards, then the height behind is 50-100 mm less. The depth of the cage is 50-70 cm. With a width it is more difficult – for males and females make cages of different sizes. In the rabbit cages, it is desirable to isolate the mother liquor – a small volume closed in which the rabbit will build a nest. Without taking into account the queen cell, the length of the cage for males and females coincides – 500-800 cm.
Photo example of a cage for rabbits
There are several options for the device of the mother liquor:
- In a spacious cage is placed a cube of boards of suitable size, in which a hole is made for the passage.
- Immediately, during construction, part of the cell of the queen cell is fenced off.
- On the side of the cage make wide removable doors. Before the offspring should appear in the rabbit, the doors are removed, the mother liquor is hung (a reliable attachment is necessary).
The optimal size of the queen cell: depth 80 cm, width 60 cm, height 40 cm (or as it turns out according to the dimensions of your cage). It is desirable to make a shelf inside the cell or above the queen cell. On it the rabbit will hide from annoying babies. In this case, it does not accidentally trample them, as happens if there is no shelf.
Rabbit-hinged mother crab
From the queen cell in the main cell make a hole. It should not start in the level with the floor, it should be span of at least 5 cm. In the early days it will keep the babies inside the queen cell.
How to make the floor
Regardless of the type of rabbits, the cage must be dry. Therefore, a solid floor is made very rarely, it is better to use a clickable one, with large gaps or from a metal grid with a small cell. If the floor is made solid (from a piece of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB), then it is made inclined to the rear wall (it is possible to the front, but less conveniently). In the back of the floor, a lattice or net is nailed, through which urine flows, and feces fall out.
The floor in the rabbit cage is best done double – the first level of wooden slats or metal grill
It is much better to make a double floor – the first one is lattice, the second one is solid. For slatted floor, take wooden strips with a width of 20-25 mm, fill them with a gap of 15 mm. Through such gaps, all wastes normally fall through – both liquid and solid. Instead of slats, you can use a hard mesh with thick wire and small cells.
Galvanized wire mesh floor – also showed itself well
The lower level of the floor – a pallet – is made more often of galvanized iron, preferably of a single piece. At the same time, a slope is formed (usually in the center of the cell or between two adjacent ones), and in the center is a groove. The height of the pallet – 25-35 mm. Less is inconvenient, more is not necessary.
One of the options for organizing the flow
To last the metal longer, it can be treated with linseed oil. If it is necessary to splice the pieces, make the connection so that everything drains, and it is advisable to coat it with bitumen mastic – so that impurities do not flow onto the rabbit’s floor.
Cages for rabbits – queen cells from the sides. The lower level of the floor is made of galvanized, molded gutter for urine flow and ease of cleaning
At the same time, the lower tier of the floor must be mobile – so that it can be pulled out and washed / cleaned. For this stuffed corners, on which he goes, like on a sled, a sheet of metal.
It is not necessary to make the lower tier of the floor on each cell. It can be common to two or three located nearby. In case it is a rabbit cage, a common pan for two cages is usually obtained – on the sides of the queens. If cells of young animals for fattening or males are arranged in a row, three cells can be combined.
A pallet in a rabbit cage can be shared across multiple cells.
Even sometimes, flat slate is used as the bottom floor. But in this case, the drain can only be organized backwards or forwards, and only into the chute that goes along the cage – the sheet cannot be bent in any way.
Doors do mostly with mesh. From the bar knocked over the frame, which stretch the grid. Tighten the nails or screws to prevent the tips from sticking up inside the cage. It is better to fill the grid so that it is “flush” on the cell side. So less likely that rabbits gnaw through the door. Those who are more friends with welding, boil the frame from a small corner, erase the tension on steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter and this wire is welded to the door.
The size of the door is more convenient large – it will be more convenient for you to maintain the cage. Constipation – the usual hooks or bolts, and make the old-fashioned piece of the bar, which is spinning on a nail, hammered into its middle. But this kind of constipation is very unreliable.
One of the easiest options for constipation for rabbit cells
If the carpentry craft is not your fad, so that the door is harder, you can tamp down the bar. He will not give the door to skew (as in the photo above). Please note that the bar is stuffed outside – so rabbits can not nibble.
Cover the cages for rabbits can be any inexpensive material. But it must be remembered that overheating and hypothermia for rabbits are destructive. Because just throw a piece of metal or any material based on it will not work. It is better to use a material with low thermal conductivity. For example, you can fill plywood (moisture-proof, building), RSD and any other similar material.
If the cells stand on the street, without a canopy, it is required to lay something on the sheet material to protect it from precipitation. In more northern areas or when installing cells in the shade, you can lay roofing material or a more modern material for waterproofing. You can not overlay it, but stick it on the bitumen mastic.
The cage roof for rabbits (summer rabbit) can be made from slate
Another option is to lay slate, better – wave. And it is better to raise it above the cage by 15-25 cm. This will create an air gap, it will not be hot in the cage. And the resulting gap can be used for drying / grafting grass. Dried in the shade, it saves more nutrients.
Sennik, drinkers, feeders
For rabbits, not so much equipment is needed – sennik, feeders for bulk small fodder, drinkers. The design of the drinkers should be such that it is easily removed – they need to be washed, to change the water. For these purposes, they usually fit some trays, under which they are made of metal strip “seat”, fixed on the door (the most convenient option) or on the wall, close to the door.
The variant of the cage side of the cage
There is one very good way to drink from the category of "cheap and cheerful." As a "cup holder" a piece of sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is used. Cutting height – 80-100 mm. A cropped, 2-liter plastic bottle is inserted inside this ring. The bottle is cropped flush with the “cup holder”, only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long remains so that the glass can be easily pulled out.
Senniki do or between two cells, mowing adjacent walls in the form of a letter V. This method is more convenient when building cells for rabbits (there are a few photos above). The second option for the cells of males and young stock – one of the walls (or a part of the wall) is made of lattice, a piece of plywood, a shield knocked down from slats, etc., is hinged to it. Fix it in the desired position with a hook, rope, wire.
In principle, with a lack of space on the side, such a sennik can be made in the front, on the door. Just on the door often, except for the drinker, they nail / make another feeder.
Feeders make who from what can. Someone has plastic or metal trays attached, someone knocks them out of wood, they even try to make them out of drywall. An interesting option seemed – an attached piece of profile for a drywall of a large section (in the photo below).
Feeding trough from a piece of a galvanized profile
You can make a feeder out of wood, but you need to beat the edges with tin.
The edges of the wooden trough, so as not to gnaw, obbivaya tin
If you have some tin work skills, you can make the trough of galvanized tin.
Feeder (left) and sennik (right) on the front
To get rid of the dusty part of the feed, several small holes are made in the bottom of the feeder.
What materials to make the frame and wall
The skeleton for the cages in the rabbitry is made from a wooden bar or from a carrying (wall) galvanized profile for gypsum cardboard, welded frameworks from a metal pipe are rarely found. They are the most reliable, but also the most difficult. More suitable for stationary installation in the rabbit.
If you know that the cells will stand together and do not plan to transfer them, you can make a single frame for the entire length of the beam
The lightest cells are obtained from the profile, but the choice of materials is very limited – heavy can not be used. When using a bar there are no questions on the weight of the material, but there is a problem – rabbits gnaw wood. Therefore, they try to make the cells so that there are fewer protruding corners — they cannot nibble on smooth surfaces.
In this rabbit house there are cages from a galvanized profile and plywood.
As you saw in the photo, the cage walls for rabbits are made from different materials – plywood, OSB, wooden boards and slats. Often used by someone that is. The most problematic places are tacked with tin or stretched over the net – this also makes it impossible to gnaw wood. There are cells that are almost entirely made of mesh. They feed well for young.
Photo report on the manufacture of the cage in a rabbit of galvanized profile
This option is suitable for those regions where wood is expensive or for mes, who has a lot of profile residue after construction / repair. In the manufacture of cells from the dimensions fit under the existing pogonazh – small deviations in one direction or another are permissible, but the rabbits should be spacious in the cage.
This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two branches. The main part is 55 * 75 * 55 cm, the queen is 35 * 55 * 30 cm. A reinforced profile goes to the stands, the usual work on the cross-pieces – as usual with drywall – is fastened with pieces of screws with a screw (fleas).
Profile attachment example
The floor in the main part is made of a bar 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide. The slats are attached to the profile on the screws. Screws need to be screwed in so that they are easy to unscrew – if (or rather, when) they bite the bar, it will be easy to replace it with a new one.
Generous sex in the main part
In the mother liquor the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part, and to lay a gap with insulation – with expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cooling, the kids will not freeze – on top of them usually mother warms them. If the bottom is warm, they won’t get sick.
The mother liquor is made without cracks
The height of the mother liquor 20 cm below the main cell. From the inside, in a cage, it turns out the shelf on which the bunny will be saved from the annoying babies.
Everything is covered with plywood, cell view
So that the outer joints of the plywood do not gnaw, we close them with perforated metal corners. Only need to look for those that are thicker. The edges of the corners are cut at 45 ° so that they do not bully and do not stick out.
Main wall cladding and door fabrication remain
This is what should come out of it.
Photo of rabbit cages for rabbit and outdoor installation
There should be enough space for the rabbit to stretch out.
A sennik and a bunker feeder are located on the front grid.
Corral for summer fattening of young stock is fenced with nets.
If the rabbitry is open, there is only a canopy, the walls of the cells are made double (the mother liquor is exact), a heater is laid between them
In the three tiers of the cells in the rabbit have rarely – the bottom is difficult to maintain
Another option for keeping rabbits on the street
You cannot put the second tier on such a cage
Corral for young stock
Wire walls, tube frame. Only the rear wall is deaf – so that there are no drafts
Most often, in the rabbitry cage stand in two tiers. This is an optimal location for service and location use.